Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the MormonsRobinson, Phil
General
Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the Mormons
Robinson, Phil
Latter Day Saint churches; Utah -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The next station we halted at was Wadsworth, a "hard place," so
men say, where revolvers are in frequent use and Lynch is judge.
Here the broad-faced Bannack chief got down, and, followed by his
tag-rag retinue, disappeared into the cluster of wigwams which we
saw pitched behind the station. I noticed a man standing here with a
splendid cactus in his hand, covered with large magenta blossoms, and
this reminded me to note the conspicuous change in the botany that
about here takes place. The flowers that had borne us company all
through Utah and now and then brightened the roadside in Nevada had
disappeared, and were replaced by others of species nearly all new
to me. I saw here for the first time a golden-flowered cactus and a
tall lavender-coloured spiraea of singular beauty. A little beyond
Wadsworth the change becomes even more marked, for striking the Truckee
river, we exchange desolation for pretty landscape, and the desert for
green bottom lands. The alteration was a welcome one, and some of the
glimpses, even if we had not passed through such a melancholy region,
would have claimed our admiration on their own merits. The full-fed
river poured along a rapid stream, through low-lying meadow-lands
fringed with tall cotton-wood, the valley sometimes narrowing so much
that the river took up all the room, and then widening out so as to
admit of large expanses of grass and occasional fields of corn. And so
to Greeno, where we supped heartily off "Truckee trout," one of the
best fish that ever wagged a fin. As we got back into the cars it was
getting dark, for with the usual luck of travel the Central Pacific
has to run its trains so as to give passengers ugly Nevada by day and
beautiful California by night.
Awaking next morning was a wonderful surprise. We had gone to sleep in
Nevada in early summer, and we awoke in California late in autumn! In
Utah, two days ago, the crops had only just begun to flush the ground
with green. Here, to-day, the corn-fields were the sun-dried stubble of
crops that had been cut weeks ago!
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