Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the MormonsRobinson, Phil
General
Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the Mormons
Robinson, Phil
Latter Day Saint churches; Utah -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
It is a great pity that San Franciscans should have this weakness. They
have plenty to be proud of, for their city is a marvel. But it has as
yet all the disadvantages of newness. Its population, moreover, is
as disagreeably unsettled as in the towns of the Levant. All the mud
and dirt are still in suspension. I know very well, of course, that
improvement is making immense and rapid strides, but to the visitor the
act of transition is, of course, invisible, and he only sees the place
at a period of apparent repose between the last point of advance and
the next. He can imagine anything he pleases--and it is difficult to
imagine the full splendour of the future of the Californian capital.
But this is not what he actually sees. For myself, then, I found San
Francisco as so many other travellers have described it, disorderly,
breathless with haste, unkempt. Here and there, where trees have
been planted, and there is the grace of flowers and creeping plants,
the houses look as if rational people might really live in them. But
for the vast majority of the buildings, they seem merely places to
lodge in, dak-bungalows or rest-houses, perches for passing swallows,
anything you like--except houses to pass one's life in. They are not
merely wooden, but they are sham too, with their imposing "fronts"
nailed on to the roofs to make them look finer, just as vulgar women
paste curly "bangs" on to the fronts of their heads. There is also
an inexcusable dearth of ornament. I say inexcusable, because San
Francisco might be a perfect paradise of flowers and trees. Even the
"weeds" growing on the sand dunes outside the city are flowers that are
prized in European gardens. But as it is, Francois Jeannot,--"French
gardener, with general enterprise of gardens," as his signboard
states,--has evidently very little to do. There is little "enterprise
of gardens." Yet what exquisite flowers there are! The crimson salvia
grows in strong hedges, and plots are fenced in with geraniums.
The fuchsias are sturdy shrubs in which birds might build their
nests, and the roses and jessamines and purple clematis of strange,
large-blossomed kinds, form natural arbours of enchanting beauty.
Lobelias spread out into large cushions of a royal blue, and the canna,
wherever sown, sends up shafts of vivid scarlet, orange, and yellow.
If I only knew the names of other plants I could fill a page with
descriptions of the wonderful luxuriance of San Franciscan flowers.
But all I could say would only emphasize the more clearly the apparent
neglect by the San Franciscans of the floral opportunities they possess.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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