Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the MormonsRobinson, Phil
General
Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the Mormons
Robinson, Phil
Latter Day Saint churches; Utah -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Some one, too, ought to visit these old Franciscan missions in Southern
California--some one who could write about them, and sketch them.
They are very delightful; the more delightful, perhaps, because they
are in the United States, in the same continent as "live" towns, as
Chicago, and Omaha, and Leadville, and Tombstone. Scattered about among
the rolling grassland are hollows filled with orchards, in which old
settlements and new are fairly embowered, while the missions themselves
are singularly picturesque; and San Gabriel's Church, they say, has a
pretty peal of bells, which the monks carried overland from Mexico in
the old Spaniard days, and which still chime for vespers as sweetly as
ever. What a wonder it must have been to the wandering Indians to hear
that most beautiful of all melodies, the chime of bells, ascending with
the evening mists from under the feet of the hills! No wonder they had
campanile legends, these poor poets of the river and prairie, and still
speak of Valleys of Enchantment whence music may be heard at nightfall!
Past Savanna and Monte, with its swine droves, and its settlement
of men who live on "hog and hominy," past Puente, and Spadra, and
Pomona, into Colton, where we dine, and well, for half a dollar,
enjoying for dessert a chat with a very pretty girl. She tells us of
the beauties of San Bernardino, and I could easily credit even more
than she says. For San Bernardino was settled by Mormons some fifty
years ago, and has all the charms of Salt Lake City, with those of
natural fertility and a profusion of natural vegetation added. But I
can say nothing of San Bernardino, for the train does not enter it.
And then, reinforced by another engine--a dumpy engine-of-all-work
sort of "help"--clambers up the San Gorgonio pass. All along the road
I notice a yellow thread-like epiphyte, or air-plant, tangling itself
round the muskeet-trees, and killing them. They call it the "mistletoe"
here but it is the same curious plant that strangles the orange trees
in Indian gardens, and the jujubes in the jungles, that cobwebs the
aloe hedges, and hangs its pretty little white bells of flower all
over the undergrowth. On the bare, sandy ground a wild gourd, with
yellow flowers and sharp-pointed spear-head leaves, throws out long
strands, that creep flat upon the ground with a curious snake-like
appearance. Clumps of wild oleander find a frugal subsistence, and
here and there an elder or a walnut manages to thrive. But the profuse
fertility of California is fast disappearing. And so to Gorgonio, at
the top of the pass; and then we begin to go down, down, down, till we
are not surprised to hear that we are far below the level of the sea.
The cactus has once more reasserted itself, and to right and left are
"forests" of this grotesque candelabra-like vegetable, with stiff arms,
covered apparently with some woolly sort of fluff. The soil beneath
them is a desperate-looking desert-sand, and here and there are bare
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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