Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
While at Siwa I dried large quantities of figs and
apricots—mish-mish—which were very successful, and especially
useful for taking out on trek when fresh fruit is unobtainable. None
of the natives had attempted drying fruit, though the excessive
heat and the flat roofs offer excellent opportunities, and quite an
industry could be developed in this way. A variety of vegetables are
grown, but only by a very few people. The most common are onions,
watercress, radishes, pepper, cucumbers, gherkins, egg fruit, mint,
parsley and garlic.
The gardens are manured with dry leaves and dried bundles of a thorny
plant called “argoul,” which grows about the oasis and is much
liked by camels. Bundles of it are cut and left for some months to
dry, and finally dug into the soil round the fruit trees. The streets,
markets and stables are all swept carefully, and the manure is sold
to owners of gardens. The contents of public and private latrines
are all collected and used as manure in the gardens. It is a good
system, as it ensures sanitary arrangements being promptly carried
out. The soil of Siwa is strongly impregnated with salt. In many
places there are stretches of “sebukh” which consists of earth
hardened by a strong proportion of salt which feels, and looks,
like a ploughed field after a black frost. It is almost impassable,
and the occasional deep water-holes, hidden by a layer of thin soil,
make walking as dangerous as it is difficult. Two large salt lakes
lie one on the east and one on the west of the town. The water in
these lakes rises irregularly during the winter months, and subsides
in the summer, leaving a glistening white surface of pure salt which
looks exactly like ice, especially in places where the dark water
shows between cracks in the salt. One can lift up white slabs of
salt in the same way as ice, and send a piece skimming across the
surface, like stones on a frozen pond at home. Sometimes there are
deep pools in the midst of the marshes where the white salt and the
vivid blue sky combine to colour the water with the most brilliant
greens and blues. Causeways built by the natives traverse the marshes,
and by these alone it is possible to cross them. In ancient days the
Ammonians sent a tribute of salt to the kings of Persia, and such
was the quality of the salt that it was used for certain special
religious rites. The glitter of the salt lakes in the middle of the
day is intensely trying to the eyes, but at sunset they reflect and
seem to exaggerate every colour of the brilliant sky.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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