Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
One day I got information that two men from Jerabub had passed through
Siwa on their way to the coast and Egypt without coming to the office
to see whether they had anything on which to pay customs. Customs
are collected at Siwa on imports from the west. I sent a patrol
after them and brought them back to the Markaz. One of them was a
grandson of the old sheikh, and the other was his cousin. I examined
their camels, and ordered them to turn out their bags, which they did
very reluctantly. They spread the contents out on the steps of the
Markaz. It was quite like a scene from the Arabian Nights. There were
heavy silver anklets, curiously chased bangles, silver earrings shaped
like a young moon with filigree bosses from which hung long silver
chains with little pendants, rings, brooches, necklaces, several small
lumps of gold, two complete sets of trappings and armour for an Arab
horse made of silver-gilt and gold-fringed velvet, filigree ornaments
and cases for charms and a little bag full of seed pearls; all this
was emptied out of two dirty old leather bags. It made a fine show
shining in the sunlight and I longed to make a bid for some of it,
but I came to the conclusion that it couldn’t be done. They were
taking it to sell to a certain merchant in Cairo, so I sent them up
with a Camel Corps patrol who were going to the coast, as already
the Siwans were casting envious eyes on the stuff. The men returned
two months later and told me that they got £140 for the lot, which
I myself had estimated as being worth a very great deal more. For
several years the old merchant had been sending stuff to be sold in
Cairo, and every year I imagine he received as small a price.
Among the valuables in his house there are a number of old Persian
and Turkish carpets, but these he keeps as they are too heavy to send
about. I had entered into negotiations with him about some of these,
but just when the bargain was being completed I got a bad “go”
of fever and had to leave for the coast. A few of the Siwan sheikhs
have good carpets, but they know their worth and are very unwilling
to part with them. Other household articles that some Siwans possess
and are very proud of are large brass Turkish samovars which they
use with charcoal for making tea. Their owners say that they were
originally brought from Constantinople, but now they have become quite
like heirlooms, and curiously enough they do not seem to wear out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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