Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
One day I heard a great deal of noise in the neighbourhood of
Haj Suliman’s house; on inquiry I was told that there was a
“fantasia” going on, so I strolled over to see it. I found a
number of dancers, music in the shape of drums and whistles, and free
“lubki” being handed round. Carpets were spread in the courtyard
and Haj Suliman, very gaily dressed, was receiving the company,
surrounded by his sons and grandchildren. He looked very pleased with
himself and invited me to drink tea, which I did. All the time he
stood near, evidently expecting me to say something to him. Eventually
I asked him why he was giving a “fantasia”—at which the whole
family began talking and telling me that it was for a wedding. “But
where is the bridegroom?” I asked, and Haj Suliman leant forward
with a silly grin on his antique face. Then, to my amazement, they
told me that the old gentleman himself was the bridegroom, this being
his thirty-sixth wedding and the bride was 14 years old. I realized
that he had been expecting my congratulations, so I offered them,
as he was evidently not of the opinion that “crabbed age and youth
cannot live together.” He died suddenly about eight months later,
“a victim of connubiality.” I had seen him the day before in
his garden working hard with an enormous iron hoe as big as a spade,
which is much used in Siwa.
Another very old man in Siwa was an aged Sudani who sold a queer
little collection of oddments in a corner of the market. At one time
he had acted as postman for the Senussi between Siwa and Kufra. He
told me, and I heard it besides from various sources, that he used to
go alone to Kufra by a track across the sand-dunes south of Siwa. He
was paid three pounds for each trip, but the danger was enormous;
if his camel had strayed or fallen ill he would have been absolutely
done for. Another queer old character was an old woman called Hanoui,
who was at one time a secret agent and remarkably clever at acquiring
information. She was also useful when one wanted to get baskets made.
The only real industry in Siwa, and it is not an important one, is the
making of mats and basket work from palm fronds. Mats and large coarse
hampers for carrying dates on camels are made by men. The mats are
usually round, very strong, lasting and useful. The Arabs buy large
quantities of them when they come down for dates in the autumn. The
baskets are made entirely by women. They are manufactured from thin
strips of palm leaves which become like raffia; sometimes they are
coloured with dye, but the better kinds are ornamented with minute
patterns of coloured silk worked into the sides, and decorated with
tassels of variegated coloured silks and scarlet leather flaps in
which to fasten cords for holding them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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