Siwa, whereabouts, 1; arrival at, 58; first impressions, 61; view from, 68; history of, 74-132; town of, 133; population of, 150 Slaves, 95, 96 Slave-woman’s story, 70, 71 Smoking, 241 Snakes, 28, 205; charmers, 206 Snow, 88; Colonel, 124 Solitude, 171 Sollum, 1, 3, 5, 7, 13, 14; camp of, 16; houses at 33; Camel Corps camp at, 40; departure from, 42; garrison of, 123; evacuated, 124; recaptured, 127 Soud, Sheikh, 176 Sparta, 79 Sponge fishers, 12 Springs, 152, 153, 161 “Stables,” 68 Stanhope, Lady Hester, 201 Stars, shooting, 227 Stolen property, 230, 231 Stone, sacred, 76, 91 Stove, story of, 39, 40 Strabo, 87 Submarines wrecked on coast, 123 Sudan, 6, 26, 36, 44, 56, 61; rest houses, 13; recruiting in, 38; trade, 96; caravans from, 87; invasion of, 102; rebellion in, 132 Sudanese, 38; conversation, 57; views of, 26; wives, 39 Sugar, 142 Suitors, to obtain, 227, 228 Suliman, Haj, 197 Suliman, Sidi, 96, 98; legends of, 97, 212; Mulid of, 246, 249; tomb of, 110, 114, 138, 233, 234 Sulphur spring, 186 Sultan of Turkey, 118, 131; excommunicated by Senussi, 121 Sultan Mousa, 162 “Sultan” of tea ceremony, 167 Sunset at Siwa, 69 Sun worship, 75 Sweets, 237 Table manners, 249 Talbot Mission, xxiv Tamousy, spring, 215 _Tara_, torpedoed, 123; rescue of crew, 130 Tea-drinking, 167, 248, 250 Tebu, lost army from, 81 Telemachus, 88 Telephone, 181 Temperature, 50, 61 Temple of Jupiter, 77 Temple of Jupiter Ammon, 32, 77 Temple of Thebes, 80 Tharic Ben Sayed, 90 Thebes, 76 Theft, discovery of, 230 Thieves, 137 “Thirty, The,” 95 Thomi, Sheikh, 66, 163 Thorn, camel, 183 _Thousand and One Nights_, 210 Timasius, 88 Title-deeds, 155 Tombs, of kings, 196; of sheikhs, 246, 247; inhabited, 192 Town-crier, 221 Toy-maker, 200 Trade, 10, 120, 261 Transport difficulties, 260 Treaty of Lausanne, 118 Trees, 202 Tripoli, 1, 15, 71, 93, 96, 101, 105, 151, 187; smugglers, 115; Arabs of, 18, 118; blankets, 184; Italians, 122, 123; Senussi, 120 Tunis, 10 Tunnels in Gebel Hassuna, 193 Turks, 102; in Tripoli, 118, 122 Typhoid, 160 Uganda, 57 Viceroy of Egypt, 107 Wadai, 96, 120 Wadi Natrun, 102 Wær, Bir, 127 Wahabi confraternity, 151 Wakf, 95, 235 Watchmen, 253 Water supply in Siwa, 152; rights, 154, 155 Weddings, Arab, 45; customs, 217, 218, 219; presents, 214, 220; procession, 216 Wells, 18; in Siwa, 136; courting at, 240; at Gara, 179 Westerners, 99, 100 Westminster, Duke of, 127, 130, 131 Whitewashing custom, 137 “Widow’s War,” 111 Widow, custom of, 221 Wind, 72-107 Windows, 143 Witches, 208, 225; tea with, 226; invoking demons, 229; practices of, 230 Witnesses, female, 174 Wives, “taking over,” 62; Siwan, 213 Wreckage, 13 Yeomanry, 125 Yom el Ashur, 237