Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
Silence falls upon the gay deck of the floating palace, as, with
quickly pulsing paddles, she throbs on amid the solitude of these dark
waters under the mountains. Far away to the south behind, like silver
in the sunshine, lies the open sea chased by the wind; but above the
narrowing channel in front the rugged Bens, sombre and vast, frown
down upon the invader. Purple-apparelled these Bens are now, like
allied kings asleep after their battles with the storm-giants of the
North. For the black waves in winter leap here savagely, and gnash
their gleaming teeth against the mountain-sides; the storm-winds roar
in anger as they buffet the iron breasts of their captors; and the
silent frost strains with his strong embrace to crack the great ribs
of the Titans. But the everlasting hills live on, and the sunshine
kisses them again and the summer rain weeps upon their scars, while
their children, the dwellers about their feet, look up and learn to
love them for their memories with a love strong as life itself. Many a
Highland heart failed long ago on the march through the Egyptian desert
when the pipes wailed out “Lochaber no more.” These are the great
mountains of Lochaber rising huge against the sky in front; and even
the gay tourist, here on the sunny deck, feels a silence gather about
his heart as he is borne on under their shadows. The young bride by the
companion-way nestles closer to her husband as, with grave blue eyes,
she gazes upon the solemn loneliness of the hills.
But listen! Do you hear? Wild and sweet in the distance over the
water comes the sound. It is the pipes, and they are playing “Flora
Macdonald’s Lament.” Yonder, down near the shore--you can make them
out through the glass--a shooting party has picnicked, and they have
brought the piper with them. How the colour deepens on the cheek of
the old Highland gentleman here at the sound! He is just returning
from many years’ residence abroad, and for the last hour, leaning over
the deck-rail, he has been feasting his heart upon the sight of the
mountains. “There is no music like that music,” he exclaims, “over the
water and among the hills.” To a Highlander, indeed, the sound of the
pipes is full of many memories, like “the sough of the south wind in
the trees” of an autumn night. The folk on deck who are from the south
will know something of it now perhaps. Yesterday, no doubt, some of
them supposed the ragged vagabond who strutted and blew on a pier-head
as the steamer passed, a specimen of the pibroch-players. They should
see a chief’s own hereditary piper march on the castle terrace,
cairngorm and silver gleaming about him, ribbons streaming on the wind,
and tartans afloat!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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