But in Asia the hills rise into mountains, and the groves swell into
forests. Everything denotes a vast, rich and prolific land, but there
is something classical, antique, and even mysterious in its general
appearance. An air of stillness and deep repose pervades its less
cultivated and less frequented shores; and the very eagles, as they
linger over the lofty peak of ‘the Giant’s grave,’ seem conscious that
they are haunting some heroic burial-place.
I remember that one of the most strange, and even sublime, spectacles
that I ever beheld occurred to me one balmy autumnal eve as I returned
home in my caique from Terapia, a beautiful village on the Bosphorus,
where I had been passing the day, to Pera. I encountered an army of
dolphins, who were making their way from the Ægean and the Sea of
Marmora through the Strait to the Euxine. They stretched right across
the water, and I should calculate that they covered, with very little
interval, a space of three or four miles. It is very difficult to form
an estimate of their number, but there must, of course, have been
many thousands. They advanced in grand style, and produced an immense
agitation: the snorting, spouting, and splashing, and the wild panting
rush, I shall never forget. As it was late, no other caique was in
sight, and my boatmen, apprehensive of being run down, stopped to defend
themselves with their oars. I had my pistols with me, and found great
sport, as, although the dolphins made every effort to avoid us, there
were really crowds always in shot. Whenever one was hit, general
confusion ran through the whole line. They all flounced about with
increased energy, ducked their round heads under water, and turned
up their arrowy tails. We remained thus stationary for nearly
three-quarters of an hour, and very diverting I found the delay. At
length the mighty troop of strangers passed us, and, I suppose, must
have arrived at the Symplegades about the same time that I sought the
elegant hospitality of the British Palace at Pera.
AN INTERVIEW WITH A GREAT TURK
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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