Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
They seek to find amusements of a higher kind in excursions to the
environs of the city. These are made sometimes to the tombs of the
saints; sometimes to the convents of certain Ishans (sheiks), in
the odour of sanctity; sometimes to the Tchiharbag Abdullah Khan,
situate near the Dervaze Imam. The visit to a Khanka, that is to a
dignitary of religion still instinct with life, is an act of more
importance and involving greater outlay than the pilgrimage to a
grave. The sainted men, whether departed or still living, have
equally their fixed days for levées and receptions. In the former
case the descendants of his Sanctity receive the tribute, in the
latter a man has the good fortune to have his purse emptied by the
holy hands themselves. On the occasion of these formal visits the
Ishans are tuned to a higher pitch than ordinary, and as the holy
eye distinguishes at once by the exterior of the visitor the amount
of the offering that is to be received, so does that measure serve
to fix with precision how long or how short the benediction is to
be cut. Scenes of this kind, in which I performed my part as a
spectator, or stood by, were always full of interest to me; and one,
over which I have had many a hearty laugh, has made an indelible
impression upon my mind. In the environs of Bokhara, I entered
the residence of a sheikh to ask for his blessing and a little
assistance in money. Upon the first point no difficulty was made,
but the second seemed to stagger him. At this moment a Turkoman was
announced as an applicant for a Fatiha. He was allowed to enter.
His holiness made his hocus-pocus with the greatest devotion. The
Turkoman sat there like an innocent lamb, and after being subjected
to the influences of the sanctifying breath, energetically
administered, he dived into his money-bag, from which he extracted
some pieces of coin, and, without counting them, transferred them
to the hand of him from whom he had received the benediction. I
noticed that the latter rubbed the money betwixt his fingers, and
was really astounded when he beckoned to me, and without once
looking at the number of pieces, handed them over to me in the
presence of the Turkoman. That was real liberality, the reader may
say. I thought so myself until coming to the bazaar and seeking to
make a purchase from a baker, one of the coins was rejected by him
as false. I tendered the others, and they were all pronounced to be
bad--valueless. The nomad, as crafty as he was superstitious, had
paid for the spurious ware with spurious money, and as his holiness
on his side had at once detected the cheat by the touch, he had no
scruple in making it over to me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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