Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
the top of the arm. Under the tchapan is worn in summer a _Yektey_
(a thin under dress), and under this the shirt, which reaches down
to the ankles, and is distinguished from other shirts, worn in Asia,
by being open on the left shoulder instead of in front, very much
like a sack. At night the Turkestans have the strange habit, before
going to sleep, of drawing their arms out of their shirt sleeves,
and doubling themselves up. In winter an extra garment, _Tchekmen_,
of ample dimensions and made of coarse stuff, is added to this
costume. In some parts of the country, especially in Khiva, where
the cold is greater, thickly-wadded, clumsy trousers are worn. As
a covering for the head they wear in Khiva the telpek, a broad,
conical-shaped hat of fur, which is very heavy; throughout Bokhara
the turban is worn. It has a very picturesque appearance, with its
long loops hanging down on the left side, and the trim natty way in
which it is put on. In Khokand a small light cap used to be worn
until twenty years ago, not unlike our clergyman's scapula (skull
cap,) but since then it has yielded to Bokhariot civilisation,
and has been supplanted by the turban. As to boots, those made in
Bokhara and Khokand are the best. The leather is good, the shape
rather handsome, but for the ludicrously long and thin heel, the end
of which is scarcely broader than a nail's head. People of rank wear
a kind of stocking made of morocco leather (mest), and over these,
shoes, of which the best are made in Samarkand.
With respect to the dress of the women, it seems as if they
were still more desirous than the men to avoid any approach to
ostentation, luxury or smartness. When in undress, the women wear
in summer a long shirt, reaching down to the ankles, the hind part
of which is made of coarse linen, and the front mostly of a light
coloured strong Russian print. The trousers are in like manner made
of linen down to the knee, and the lower part, which fits close to
the ankle, is made of print, or any other coloured stuff. The women
wear in winter, over the shirt, one or two thickly-wadded jackets,
fastened round the loins with a shawl. When abroad they put over
all this a long garment, not unlike a man's coat, in which the
woman muffles herself, holding it tightly together with both hands
across her chest. The feet are covered with clumsy boots. It is a
sorry sight to see a town woman of Central Asia walk about in this
wretched costume, with her whole attention engrossed by the effort
not to let the over-coat escape from her hands, since she would
be regarded as an impudent woman indeed, if she allowed her under
garments to be seen, and although the boldest stare cannot penetrate
the coarse veil of horse-hair, yet she has to be for ever on the
watch not to attract the looks of the passers by.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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