Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
Not only has the Oxus extremely rapid currents, but it continually
deviates from its original channel. These deviations in the lower
part of the river begin after its bend near Hezaresp, and are far
more numerous than is generally supposed. Upon enquiring of the
inhabitants about them, they reckoned up more than eight on each
side, and although they may have included in this estimate former
canals, nevertheless its irregularity must be admitted. Taking this
view, there is very little difficulty in agreeing with Sir Henry
Rawlinson, who founded his assertion on a very valuable Persian
manuscript, that in former times the Sea of Aral had no existence
whatever.
The journey from Kungrat to Khiva is generally made by land, since
it requires from eighteen to twenty days up stream. The transport
of freight is made by water. There are three roads by land; 1,
by Köhne Urgends, which is called the summer route, and avoids
the lakes, outlets and arms of the Oxus, which at that season of
the year are full to overflowing. This route is the longest, 56
farsakh[16] in length; 2, by Khodja Ili, a distance of 40 farsakh,
which the traveller prefers in the winter, all the waters being
frozen; and 3, the road on the right bank of the Oxus by Shurakhan,
which makes several _détours_, and runs through a great many
sand-steppes.
[16] Farsakh (_i. e._, παρασάγγης), a Persian league, about
18,000 feet in length.
Our return journey had to be made with all possible speed, but
nevertheless we were obliged to take the long road by Köhne Urgendj.
We had the good fortune to join a party of travellers, of whom some
were going to Köhne Urgendj, others to Khiva. All were capitally
mounted, and even the horses placed at our disposal "lillah" (out of
pious benevolence) were young, vigorous animals, and, as we carried
no luggage except a few biscuits with a small store of provisions
for our journey, we rode briskly along in spite of the heat, which
even in the early morning made itself felt. Leaving the gate of
the town behind us, we rode across the well-cultivated district
of Kungrat, keeping always a north-westerly direction, and then
crossing a barren tract of country, came to a large stagnant water,
called _Atyolu_, which is marked out as the first stage, and is 7
farsakh long. A bridge leads over a narrow part of it, and here the
road diverges in two parts, the one of which skirts a low mountain,
called Kazak Orge, and, crossing the great plateau of Ustyurt, goes
to Orenburg; the other leads to Köhne Urgendj. We took the latter
route, and passing through forests and sandy tracts, now and then
came in sight of some ruin on either side of the road, of which
two were pointed out as being worthy of notice;--Karagömbez (black
dome), near which a salt is found as clear and white as crystal,
and the finest in the Khanat, and Barsakilmez (he who goes does not
return), a dangerous spot, inhabited even at the present day by evil
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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