The day after our arrival, we went to visit the Waly, who received
us in a magnificent style. We found him attended by his principal
officers; and the two boys, who had come to meet us, were standing
close to their father. The Elchee wished them to be seated; but that,
he was informed, was against the etiquette of this petty court. That
etiquette however was disturbed. A man came into the room, and spoke
to the Waly in the Kûrdish dialect. The prince laughed; and on the
Elchee asking what was the matter--"Nothing," said he, "except that
a spoilt child of mine, not four years of age, declares he will put
himself to death, unless allowed to see you as well as his brothers."
The Elchee entreated he might make his appearance, saying he was fond
of children, and much flattered by the boy's anxiety to see him. Soon
after, in marched this desperate little Kûrd, loaded with fine clothes.
He was tolerably bold at first, but took alarm when pressed by the
Elchee to sit near him; he appeared particularly startled by the cocked
hat and high feather. The Elchee, observing this, took out the feather
and gave it him to play with. This act of conciliation was completely
successful. After amusing himself with the feather for some time, the
little fellow ventured to take up the hat, examined it, and other parts
of our dress, and in a few minutes began to chatter in a manner which
delighted the father, who seemed much pleased with the attention paid
to his favourite.
The Waly having returned the Elchee's visit, and invited us to dine
with him, we went to his palace, a small but handsome building. The
hall in which we were received was forty feet long, twenty-four broad,
and thirty high. A facing of white marble covered the walls of this
apartment to the height of eight feet, above that it was painted and
richly gilt. The chequered gilding of the roof had an appearance like
mosaic, which produced a good effect. Adjoining to this hall, and one
step more elevated, was a room twenty-four feet by eighteen, connected
with the interior of the palace by folding-doors, so admirably
finished, and the gilding of which so exactly corresponded with the
other ornaments of the apartment, that when shut it was difficult to
discover them. The front of the hall was supported by four richly
carved and gilt pillars, and opened on a terrace commanding a view of
the town. On this terrace was a fountain, adapted to its size and that
of the building.
Persia is famous for its carpets; but none I had ever seen surpassed
in beauty that on which the Waly and his guests were seated in this
hall of his fathers. He appeared to have great pride in introducing
the Elchee to the persons by whom he was surrounded. None of them, he
said, counted less than eight or nine generations in the service of
his family, and some had been its firm and attached adherents during a
period of four centuries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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