We were at several evening parties. The dinner given by the minister,
Mahomed Nebbee Khan, was the most magnificent. He has been in India;
and some English usages, to please and accommodate us, were grafted on
the Persian. We went at five o'clock in the evening, and were received
in his state hall. In the court-yard, in front of the room in which we
sat, were assembled rope-dancers, wrestlers, musicians, lions, bears,
and monkeys, all of which exhibited their different feats till sunset;
when, after being regaled with coffee, kelliâns, and sweetmeats, we
were conducted to another apartment, where we found a dessert of fruit
very elegantly laid out in the English style. After sitting in this
room for about an hour, we returned to the state hall, which we had no
sooner entered than the fireworks commenced; and though the space where
they were exhibited was very confined, they were the best I ever saw.
The rockets were let off from a frame which kept them together, and
produced a beautiful effect. There was another sort called zembooreh,
or swivels, which made a report like a twelve pounder, and added great
spirit and effect to this exhibition. After it was over we had a most
sumptuous repast of fine pelaws, &c., and iced sherbets.
The day before we left Shiraz, Derveesh Seffer, my old acquaintance,
paid the Elchee a visit. This remarkable man, who has charge of the
shrines[42] (including those of Sâdee and Hâfiz) near Shiraz, is
esteemed one of the best reciters of poetry and tellers of tales in
Persia; and there is no country in the world where more value is placed
upon such talents; he who possesses them in an eminent degree is as
certain of fortune and fame as the first actors in Europe. Derveesh
Seffer, who is honoured by the royal favour, has a very melodious
voice, over which he has such power as to be able to imitate every
sound, from that of the softest feminine to the harshest masculine
voice. The varied expression of his countenance is quite as astonishing
as his voice, and his action is remarkably graceful, and always suited
to his subject. His memory is not only furnished with an infinite
variety of stories, but with all the poetry of his country; this
enables him to give interest and effect to the most meagre tale, by
apt quotations from the first authors of Persia. Those told by persons
like him usually blend religious feeling with entertainment, and are
meant to recommend charity; but I cannot better conclude this account
of my friend the Derveesh than by giving a tale which he recited to
the Envoy, with a view no doubt of impressing him with a belief that
worldly success might be promoted by munificence, in any shape, to
shrines like those of which he had charge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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