Devon (England) -- Social life and customs; Wreyland (England)
We came from Basle to London in 1869 in six-and-twenty hours, and in
1913 I came in fourteen hours. There were neither dining-cars nor
sleeping-cars in 1869, nor were there any corridor-carriages, but only
the old style of carriage that jolted one abominably. Yet my father kept
talking of the speed and comfort of the train, for he was thinking of
the journey in the diligence. I got little sympathy from him, when I
felt tired in a train; and I have little sympathy with people who
complain of travelling now. In fact, I sometimes feel a little jealous
of their seeing things so easily that I saw only with trouble and
discomfort. They have railways and hotels all over Greece; and, when I
went there first in 1880, there were no hotels except at Athens, and no
railways except from Athens to Peiræus, a distance of about five miles.
But there was a pleasant way of travelling that is unknown to them. When
I first went to Holland in 1872, we travelled along the canals in a
Trekschuit, a light barge drawn by two or three horses, tandem, that
went along the tow-path at a trot. The seats were put up high enough to
clear the banks of the canal; and you saw the country comfortably, as
you went gliding through. They have only motors now.
These barges were formerly in use in Belgium also; and I found these
entries in one of the old diaries here:--“25 July 1833. Dunkirk. By
barge to Bruges.... Changed barges at Furnes, the Belgian frontier....
Changed barges again at Nieuport.... 27 July 1833. Bruges. Embarked in a
superb barge, called the Lion, and drawn by five horses. It had carried
Napoleon.... Arrived at Ghent in the evening.”
A steamboat was nicer than a diligence; and that really was the reason
why people were always going up the Rhine. It was much the easiest way
of getting to Switzerland and Italy. Going by the Rhine in 1855, my
father notes that it was the seventeenth time that he had gone that way,
either up or down the stream. That time he had his father with him, and
chafed a little at the leisurely movements of the previous generation.
But he never wished for anything more rapid than the steamboat on the
Rhine, whereas I have found it tedious, and gone up by the train.
* * * * *
Looking at old diaries, I see that the cost of travelling on the
Continent has varied very little in the last seventy or eighty years.
There has been a decrease in the cost of transit; but this is
counterbalanced by an increase in the charge for bedrooms. It used to be
absurdly low; but the rooms were often very poor and sparsely furnished
even at the best hotels. The charge for meals at table d’hôte remains
about the same.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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