Devon (England) -- Social life and customs; Wreyland (England)
I saw Paris next in August and September 1871. And these are some of the
things that I noted in my diary then:--In the Rue de Rivoli some blocks
of houses had been blown up, others burnt, and all more or less damaged.
Of the garden front of the Tuileries only the outer walls were left: the
New Louvre had been a little damaged, and was being re-roofed: the fire
had not reached the Louvre itself. At the Palais Royal, the palace
itself had been burnt, but not the shops underneath. Neither the Bourse
nor the Opera House was hurt. There was nothing left of the Hôtel de
Ville except the outer walls and the chimneys with the statues on them;
and these stood out well against the sky. Most of the neighbouring
houses had been burnt. There were several shot holes through the
Bastille Column. The remains of the Vendôme Column had already been
removed, but the base was still there, a good deal broken on the side on
which the pillar fell--and the man with the telescope was there as
before. The arcade in the Rue de Castiglione was covered with bullet
holes. In the Place de la Concorde the statue of Lille had been knocked
to pieces by a shell, also one of the fountains--the further from the
river--but the Luxor obelisk was safe. Out by the Auteuil Gate every
house had been more or less damaged by shells, and a good many had been
pulled down for fear of their collapsing. The stone fortifications were
not much damaged, but the earthworks above them were covered with
shell-holes. For 300 yards outside the fortifications the trees in the
Bois de Boulogne had been cut down, but very few of the others had been
damaged.
Paris has never recovered from that blow, and its slovenliness under the
Republic contrasts badly with its smartness in the Second Empire. The
damage was made good, but there has been little progress since; and
meanwhile Vienna has become the finest town in Europe. Berlin has grown
enormously; and the pleasant old town is lost amidst the dreariness of
its extensions. It was after the events of 1870 that building started
there, and started at Rome also in much the same style. But a style that
does not matter in Berlin, is quite exasperating in such a place as
Rome.
During the siege of Paris there was Aurora Borealis on the nights of 24
and 25 October 1870. I have never seen anything else so brilliant in the
sky--the Krakatoa sunsets were nothing to it. A friend of mine was in
Paris at the time, and his diary says:--“The colour was blood mixed with
water.” People in London--myself among them--fancied that Paris was in
flames, and that this was the reflexion in the sky. But, when the
Communists did what the Germans did not do, there was no glare visible
so far away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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