Devon (England) -- Social life and customs; Wreyland (England)
The whole history of such festivals is given in _Palio and Ponte_ by
William Heywood, 1904. On looking into this, I found references to the
Palio of 1898, and on plate 22 I found the top of my straw hat in the
foreground of the picture. The hat is unmistakeable--built specially for
me at Christys’ with wider brim and lower crown than was usual at that
period.
Siena is still a mediæval city; and the race is run inside the city in a
semicircular space enclosed by fine old buildings. But the race itself
is not as interesting as the procession that precedes it. The city and
its seventeen wards are represented by about 180 men, all in costumes of
the Fifteenth Century, and the chief in splendid armour: the horses go
with the members of the wards for which they run: the Palio is carried
on a wagon in the middle; and the procession ends with the standard of
the city on the mast of the Carroccio, the great wagon round which the
struggle centred at that Battle of the Standard fought at Montaperto on
4 September 1260. I have seen as brilliant a sight with the
bull-fighters entering the Plaza de Toros in procession--Madrid, 9
September 1877--but this was more impressive with its stately movement
round that venerable place, the deep notes of the ancient drums and
trumpets, and the great bell--the Campanone--roaring in its tower.
From my diary, Antwerp, 20 August 1872:--“Saw the Procession of the
Giant from a house in the Rue de Chaperon. This procession takes place
every third year on the last day of the Kermis: it commemorates the
killing of a giant who held a castle on the banks of the Scheldt. First
came an immense figure of a dolphin.... Then a basket-work figure of
the Giantess, about twenty-five feet high: seated and holding in one
hand a spear and in the other a shield with the city arms. Then the
Giant, another figure of the same sort: in armour and carrying a club
and sword.”
The procession was performed out of due season on 19 September 1843 for
the benefit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert; and they went
afterwards to the studio of Gustaf Wappers, and commissioned him to
paint a picture of it. The picture is in the King’s collection, and is
engraved in Hall’s _Royal Gallery of Art_. It depicts three ladies at an
open window, looking down on the procession as it passes through the
Place de Meir, the Giant in the middle distance, and the Cathedral spire
in the background. I have the preliminary sketch in oils; and this gives
a second window, showing the palace in the Place de Meir, and the royal
party on the balcony.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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