Devon (England) -- Social life and customs; Wreyland (England)
In 1891 I went to Kairouan, 27-29 March. There was no great difficulty
in going then, and it is quite easy now; but until 1881 no Christians
were allowed there. At the Mosques the people showed quite plainly that
they did not want you there, and yet seemed pleased that you should see
things, if you could appreciate their merits. But some French people
came, who treated the whole thing as a show; and this displeased a very
stalwart Dervish. So he went off, and rooted up a prickly-pear plant
well covered with spikes, and then pranced in, whirling this huge thing
round his head. And he personally conducted that party out of his Mosque
and some way down the road.
Few people go to see the ruins of Utica, as the ruins are not worth
seeing. But it struck me that some eminent writers had made a mess of
the topography; and I went there, 24 March 1891, to see what I could
make of it. And then I wrote a couple of articles in the _Revue
Archéologique_, saying things about those writers. I apologised to the
editor for my French of Stratford atte Bowe, but he said he thought it
was the French of Billingsgatte.
I was sitting in the ruins of what clearly was the theatre: the lower
parts were covered by a marsh; and presently a Chorus of Frogs came out,
and gave me a lesson on Aristophanes. He makes his Chorus of Frogs say
_brekekekex koax koax_; and I found that this should be taken as three
syllables, answering to his _oo-op-op_ and _rhyp-pa-pai_. The
_brekekekex_ stands for one long croak, not four; and the modern music
of the play has got it wrong.
Just after this I was going down from Constantine to Biskra, and met the
locusts coming up, 3 April 1891. There is a narrow gorge, not more than
fifty yards in width, by which one passes from the Tell to the Sahara;
and it was quite choked up with them from ground to sky. They seemed to
be flying only eight or ten inches apart, and coming on interminably.
They are pleasant-looking creatures, and would be as popular as
grasshoppers, if only they would come in reasonable numbers. Coming in
myriads, they have their uses too. Potted locust is not bad.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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