Social England under the Regency, Vol. 1 (of 2)Ashton, John
History
Social England under the Regency, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Ashton, John
England -- Social life and customs -- 19th century; Regency -- England
Prior to the dinner, the Duke was presented with the Freedom of the
City (an honour which any one under the rank of a monarch does not
despise) in a gold box, and a splendid sword. Most of the Royal
Dukes, and all the Cabinet Ministers, together with large numbers of
the Nobility, were present. There was a gruesome long list of toasts,
among which was "the Ladies," proposed by the Duke of Wellington.
Poor man! he little thought what his gallantry would cost him, or
perhaps, even he, the dauntless, might have quailed before what
he had to undergo, with the exception of the last sentence, which
probably served as the gilt to the pill. "Towards the close of the
evening, a temporary staircase was opened from the galleries, into
the body of the Hall, by which the Ladies descended, and passed round
the hustings, and every one had the honour of shaking hands with the
Immortal Hero, and the Royal Dukes, _and some of the younger ones
were saluted by his Grace_." We afterwards learn that "nearly Seven
Hundred Ladies were in the Galleries."
_Apropos_ of what I wrote about dining, at this period, hear
Captain Gronow, when writing on the same theme: "Even in the best
houses, when I was a young man, the dinners were wonderfully solid,
hot, and stimulating. The _menu_ of a grand dinner was thus
composed:--Mulligatawny and Turtle Soups were the first dishes placed
before you; a little lower, the eye met with the familiar salmon
at one end of the table, and the turbot, surrounded by smelts, at
the other. The first course was sure to be followed by a saddle of
mutton, or a piece of roast beef; and then you could take your oath
that fowls, tongue and ham, would as assuredly succeed, as darkness
after day.
"Whilst these never-ending _pièces de résistance_ were occupying the
table, what were called French Dishes were, for custom's sake, added
to the solid abundance. The French, or side dishes, consisted of very
mild, but very abortive, attempts at Continental cooking, and I have
always observed that they met with the neglect and contempt they
merited. The universally adored, and ever popular potato, produced at
the very earliest period of the dinner, and eaten with everything, up
to the moment when sweets appeared. Our Vegetables, the best in the
world, were never honoured by an accompanying sauce, and, generally,
came to the table cold. A prime difficulty to overcome, was the
placing on your fork, and, finally in your mouth, some half dozen
different eatables which occupied your plate at the same time. For
example, your plate would contain, say, a slice of Turkey, a piece
of stuffing, a sausage, pickles, a slice of tongue, cauliflower and
potatoes. According to habit and custom, a judicious and careful
selection from this little bazaar of good things was to be made,
with an endeavour to place a portion of each in your mouth at the
same moment. In fact, it appeared to me that we used to do all our
compound Cookery between our jaws.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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