If there is one vegetable on earth that more than any other is a gift of
the gods, it is the haricot bean. It has all the virtues: it forms a
soft paste upon the tongue; it is extremely palatable, abundant,
inexpensive, and highly nutritious. It is a vegetable meat which,
without being bloody and repulsive, is the equivalent of the horrors
outspread upon the butcher's slab. To recall its services the more
emphatically, the Provencal idiom calls it the _gounflo-gus_--the filler
of the poor.
Blessed Bean, consoler of the wretched, right well indeed do you fill
the labourer, the honest, skilful worker who has drawn a low number in
the crazy lottery of life. Kindly Haricot, with three drops of oil and a
dash of vinegar you were the favourite dish of my young years; and even
now, in the evening of my days, you are welcome to my humble porringer.
We shall be friends to the last.
To-day it is not my intention to sing your merits; I wish simply to ask
you a question, being curious: What is the country of your origin? Did
you come from Central Asia with the broad bean and the pea? Did you make
part of that collection of seeds which the first pioneers of culture
brought us from their gardens? Were you known to antiquity?
Here the insect, an impartial and well-informed witness, answers: "No;
in our country antiquity was not acquainted with the haricot. The
precious vegetable came hither by the same road as the broad bean. It is
a foreigner, and of comparatively recent introduction into Europe."
The reply of the insect merits serious examination, supported as it is
by extremely plausible arguments. Here are the facts. For years
attentive to matters agricultural, I had never seen haricots attacked by
any insect whatever; not even by the Bruchidae, the licensed robbers of
leguminous seeds.
On this point I have questioned my peasant neighbours. They are men of
the extremest vigilance in all that concerns their crops. To steal their
property is an abominable crime, swiftly discovered. Moreover, the
housewife, who individually examines all beans intended for the
saucepan, would inevitably find the malefactor.
All those I have spoken to replied to my questions with a smile in which
I read their lack of faith in my knowledge of insects. "Sir," they said,
"you must know that there are never grubs in the haricot bean. It is a
blessed vegetable, respected by the weevil. The pea, the broad bean, the
vetch, and the chick-pea all have their vermin; but the haricot, _lou
gounflo-gus_, never. What should we do, poor folk as we are, if the
_Courcoussoun_ robbed us of it?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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