In a description of men's dress, we will begin at his hat, and descend gradually to his boots. The hats were rather low crowned, made of felt, with very broad flapping brims--which were looped up, or cocked--very much at the fancy of the wearer--and the absence of this cocking denoted a sloven. 'Take out your Snuff Box, Cock, and look smart, hah!'[173] says Clodio to his bookworm brother Carlos; and their numerous shapes are alluded to by Budgell,[174] 'I observed afterwards, that the Variety of Cocks into which he moulded his Hat, had not a little contributed to his Impositions upon me.' [Footnote 173: _Love Makes a Man_, C. Cibber, ed. 1701.] [Footnote 174: _Spectator_, 319.] They were universally of black hue; at least I have never met with mention of any other colour, except in sport: 'I shall very speedily appear at _White's_ in a _Cherry coloured Hat_. I took this Hint from the Ladies Hoods, which I look upon as the boldest Stroke that Sex has struck for these three hundred Years last past.'[175] They had a gold or silver lace hat band, but ordinary people seldom had their hats edged. A hatband was considered _de rigueur_ for servants, and Swift's man, Peter, even bought a silver one for himself, rather than be without one. Feathers were only worn by military men. 'The Person wearing the Feather, though our Friend took him for an Officer in the Guards, has proved to be an arrant Linnen Draper,'[176] _i.e._ only in the train bands. [Footnote 175: _Ibid._] [Footnote 176: _Ibid._] But it was in the periwig, the Falbala, or Furbelow, the dress wig of the age, that all care was centred, and in which all the art of dress culminated. Originally invented by a French courtier to conceal a deformity in the shoulders, either of the Dauphin, or the Duke of Burgundy, its use spread all over Europe; but, perhaps, the fashion never was so preposterous at any time, as it was in Anne's reign, if we except the wonderful wig of the spendthrift Sir Edward Hungerford (whose bust used to be in a niche in Hungerford Market) in the middle of the previous century, who is said to have given five hundred guineas for a wig! They were made from women's hair--or, at least, were so presumably. Of this we have many examples; take one: 'A noisie Temple _Beaux_ with a Peruke of his Sister's Hair ill made';[177] [Footnote 177: _The Roving Husband Reclaim'd_, ed. 1706.] They made our Sparks cut off their Nat'ral Hair, A d--d long W----'s Hair Periwig to wear.[178] [Footnote 178: _The Baboon à la Mode, A Satyr against the French._]