The 'commode' must have been so named on the same _lucus à non lucendo_ principle as the night cap and gown; for a more inconvenient headdress, perhaps, was never invented. It originated in the Court of Louis XIV., and was there called a _fontange_ because it had been introduced by Mademoiselle Fontange.[215] It was also named a 'head' or a 'top knot' and was made of rows of plaited muslin, or lace, stiffened with wire, one over the other, diminishing as they rose. During the reign, their fashion and shape altered very much, as is noticed by Addison: 'There is not so variable a thing in Nature as a Lady's Head Dress: Within my own Memory I have known it rise and fall above thirty Degrees. About ten years ago it shot up to a very great Height, insomuch that the Female Part of our Species were much taller than the men.'[216] The numerous examples given in the illustrations of this book render any further reference to the 'commode' unnecessary, as the reader will there see it depicted in every stage. The cut on this page is only given because it shows it on a larger scale than any other, and is, besides, interesting, as forming one of a pack of cards (1707). [Footnote 215: It is said to have had its origin in a hunting party, where the hair of the royal favourite got loose. She hurriedly tied her laced handkerchief round her head; and the effect produced was so pretty, and artistic, that it delighted Louis XIV., who begged her to keep it so arranged for the remainder of the day--a hint not wasted on the other ladies, who next day appeared 'coiffées à la Fontange.'] [Footnote 216: _Spectator_, No. 98, June 21, 1711.] [Illustration: A Commode.] Ward gives us his definition of a _Belle_, or 'Modish Lady,' as he prefers to call her, who was-- At _Hackney_, _Stepney_, or at _Chealsea_ Bred, In Dancing perfect and in Plays well Read. .............................................. Impatient of Extreams, with Pride half Craz'd, Then must her Head, a Story higher be rais'd. In her next Gaudy Gown, her Sweeping Train Is order'd to be made as long again; All things must vary from the common Rode, And reach a Size beyond the Decent Mode: Thus Monstrously Adorn'd, to make a show, } She walks in State, and Courtsies very low, } And is a proper Mistress for the _Fool_, a _Beau_.[217] } [Footnote 217: _London Spy._] We get a very good, and at the same time humorous, description of female dress in 1707 out of Mrs. Centlivre's play of 'The Platonick Lady,' wherein one of the characters is Mrs. Dowdy, 'a Somersetshire Widow, come to Town to learn Breeding.' Act. 3. Enter Mrs. _Dowdy_, Mrs. _Brazon_ the Matchmaker, Mrs. _Wheedle_ the Milliner, Mrs. _Turnup_ the Manto Maker, Mrs. _Crispit_ the Tire Woman, and _Peeper_, her Maid. They all seem Talking to her.