Here, then, we have a very graphic, and evidently unbiassed, account of the cuisine of this reign. Two o'clock seems to have been the middle-class time of dining, but people with any pretension to fashion dined later. 'Why does any Body Dine before Four a Clock in London? For my Part, I think it an ill bred Custom to make my Appetite Pendulum to the Twelfth Hour. Besides, 'tis out of Fashion to Dine by Day light.'[250] And Steele, writing about 'Rakes,' says: 'All the noise towards six in the evening is caused by his mimics and imitators;'[251] thus leading to the inference that, dinner being at four, and wine being plentifully drunk after it, they rose from table half drunk, and went noisily to the coffee-houses. [Footnote 250: _The Basset Table._] [Footnote 251: _Tatler_, No. 27.] This, probably, was the case at such a place as Pontack's, which held the first rank among the restaurants of the time. It was situated in Abchurch Lane, and was said to have derived its name from Pontack, a president of the Parliament of Bordeaux, who gave his name to the best French clarets; but this could hardly be the case, as all contemporary writers call the proprietor Pontack. Misson speaks in high terms of the place. Swift writes to Stella: 'I was this day in the City, and dined at Pontack's with Stratford, and two other merchants. Pontack told us, although his wine was so good, he sold it cheaper than others, he took but seven shillings a flask;' and again, 'I dined in the City at Pontack's with Stratford; it Cost me Seven Shillings.' 'Would you think that little _lap dog_ in Scarlet there, has Stomach enough to digest a Guinea's worth of Entertainment at _Pontack's_ every Dinner Time?'[252] 'Mr. Montgomery said you had better go to _Pontack's_, Gentlemen, I think there is none here but knows Pontack's, it is one of the greatest Ordinaries in England.'[253] 'Your great Supper lies on my Stomach still, I defie _Pontack_ to have prepar'd a better o' th' sudden.'[254] [Footnote 252: _Works of T. Brown._] [Footnote 253: _An Account of the Behaviour, Confession and last Dying Speech of Sir John Johnson._] [Footnote 254: _Lying Lover._] There were others nearly as good. At Locket's,[255] Brown's and at Pontack's enquire, What modish Kick shaws the nice Beaus desire, What famed Ragoust, what new invented Salate Has best pretentions to regale the Palate.[256] [Footnote 255: Charing Cross.] [Footnote 256: Prologue to Centlivre's _Love's Contrivance_.]