McAllister, Ward, 1827-1895; Socialites -- New York (State) -- New York -- Biography
Some features of the everyday Southern dinner were _pilau_, i.e. boiled
chickens on a bed of rice, with a large piece of bacon between the
chickens; “Hoppin John,” that is, cowpeas with bacon; okra soup, a
staple dish; shrimp and prawn pie; crab salad; pompey head (a stuffed
_filet_ of veal); roast quail and snipe, and, during the winter, shad
daily, boiled, broiled and baked.
As there is reciprocity in everything, if you dine with others, they, in
turn, must dine with you. Passing several winters at Nassau, N.P., I
dined twice a week, regularly, with the Governor of the Bahamas. I
suggested to him the propriety of my giving him a dinner. He smiled, and
said:
“My dear fellow, I represent Her Majesty; I cannot, in this town, dine
out of my own house.”
“Egad!” said I, “then dine with me in the country!”
“That will do,” he replied; “but how will you, as a stranger, get up a
dinner in this land, where it is a daily struggle to get food?”
“Leave that to me,” I said. The Governor’s accepting this invitation,
recalled a story my father oft related, which caused me some anxiety as
to the expense of my undertaking. A distinguished man with whom he was
associated at the bar was sent as our Minister to Russia; when he
returned home, my father interviewed him as to his Russian experience.
He said, that after being repeatedly entertained by the royal family, he
felt that it was incumbent on him, in turn, to entertain them himself;
so he approached the Emperor’s grand Chamberlain and expressed this
wish, who at once accepted an invitation to breakfast for the whole
Imperial family. “McAllister,” he said, “I gave that breakfast; I was
charmed with its success, but my dear man, it took my entire fortune to
pay for it. I have been a poor man ever since.”
Having this party on hand, I went to the _chef_ of the hotel,
interviewed him, found he had been at one time the head cook of the New
York Hotel in this city; so I felt safe in his hands. I went to work and
made out a list of all the French dishes that could be successfully
rechaufféd. Such as _côtelettes de mouton en papillotte_, _vol au vent à
la financière_, _boudins de volaille à la Richelieu_, _timbales de riz
de veau_, _et quenelle de volaille_; a boiled Yorkshire ham, easily
heated over, to cook which properly it must be simmered from six to
seven hours until you can turn the bone; then lay it aside twelve hours
to cool; then put it in an oven, and constantly baste it with a pint of
cider. It must be served hot, even after being cut. The oftener it is
placed in the oven and heated the better it becomes. Thus cooked, they
have been by one of my friends hermetically sealed in a tin case and
sent to several distinguished men in England, who have found them a
great delicacy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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