McAllister, Ward, 1827-1895; Socialites -- New York (State) -- New York -- Biography
The highest cultivation in social manners enables a person to conceal
from the world his real feelings. He can go through any annoyance as if
it were a pleasure; go to a rival’s house as if to a dear friend’s;
“Smile and smile, yet murder while he smiles.” A great compliment once
paid me in Newport was the speech of an old public waiter, who had grown
gray in the service, when to a _confrère_ he exclaimed: “In this house,
my friend, you meet none but quality.”
In planning a dinner the question is not to whom you owe dinners, but
who is most desirable. The success of the dinner depends as much upon
the company as the cook. Discordant elements--people invited
alphabetically, or to pay off debts--are fatal. Of course, I speak of
ladies’ dinners. And here, great tact must be used in bringing together
young womanhood and the dowagers. A dinner wholly made up of young
people is generally stupid. You require the experienced woman of the
world, who has at her fingers’ ends the history of past, present, and
future. Critical, scandalous, with keen and ready wit, appreciating the
dinner and wine at their worth. Ladies in beautiful toilets are
necessary to the elegance of a dinner, as a most exquisitely arranged
table is only a solemn affair surrounded by black coats. I make it a
rule never to attend such dismal feasts, listening to prepared
witticisms and “twice-told tales.” So much for your guests.
The next step is an interview with your _chef_, if you have one, or
_cordon bleu_, whom you must arouse to fever heat by working on his
ambition and vanity. You must impress upon him that this particular
dinner will give him fame and lead to fortune. My distinguished cousin,
who enjoyed the reputation of being one of the most finished _gourmets_
in this country, when he reached this point, would bury his head in his
hands and (seemingly to the _chef_) rack his brain seeking inspiration,
fearing lest the fatal mistake should occur of letting two white or
brown sauces follow each other in succession; or truffles appear twice
in that dinner. The distress that his countenance wore as he repeatedly
looked up at the _chef_, as if for advice and assistance, would have its
intended effect on the culinary artist, and _his_ brain would at once
act in sympathy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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