Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural LiteratureWalden, J. H.
Science
Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural Literature
Walden, J. H.
Agriculture -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
_Cuttings_--may be from any wood you have to spare, and should be about
a foot long, having two buds. Plant at an angle of forty-five degrees,
one bud and two thirds of the cutting under the soil. A little shade and
moisture will cause nearly all to grow. A little grafting-wax on the top
will aid the growth, by preventing evaporation. The cutting, so buried
as to have the top bud half an inch under fine mould, is said to be
surer. Cuttings should be made late in fall, or early in winter, and
preserved as scions for grafting. Cuttings made in the spring are less
sure to grow, and their removal is much more injurious to the vine.
Vines raised from cuttings may be transplanted when one or two years
old.
_Grafting_--should be performed after the leaves are well developed in
the spring. The sap becomes thick, which aids the process. Remove the
earth, and saw off the vine two or three inches below the surface. Graft
with scions of the previous year's growth, but well matured, and apply
cement, to keep the sap from coming out. Cover all but the top bud. In
stocks an inch in diameter put two scions. Very few need fail.
_Budding_--maybe done as in other cases, but always after the leaves are
well developed, to avoid bleeding. These modes of propagation stand in
the following order in point of preference, the best being named first:
layers, cuttings, grafting, budding.
_Culture and Manure._--Land prepared by deep subsoil plowing, highly
manured and cultivated the previous season in a root-crop, is the best
for a vineyard. The trenches for the rows should be spaded twenty
inches deep, and a part of the surface-soil put in the bottom. After
planting the vines, stir the ground often and keep clear of weeds. At
first, stir the soil deep; but, as the roots extend, avoid working among
them, and never disturb the roots with a plow. Mulching preserves the
soil in a moist, loose condition, and is a good preventive of mildew. In
many instances it is said to have doubled the crop. Common
animal-manures are good for young vines, and in preparing the soil, but
are rather too stimulating for bearing vines, often injuring the fruit.
Ashes and cinders from the smith's forge, wood-ashes, charcoal,
soapsuds, bones and bonedust, lime, and forest and grape leaves and
trimmings, carefully dug into the soil around the vines, are all very
good. A liberal supply of suitable manures will keep the vines in a
healthy condition, and preserve the fruit from disease and decay. This,
with judicious pruning, will render the grape-crop regular and sure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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