Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural LiteratureWalden, J. H.
Science
Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural Literature
Walden, J. H.
Agriculture -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
For this there is a certain preventive. It consists in shortening in, by
cutting off in the month of September, from a third to a half of the
current season's growth. If the top be large, cut off one half the
length of the new wood. If it be less vigorous and rank, and you fear
you will not have room for a fair crop of peaches, cut off but one
third. This heading-in is sometimes recommended to be done in the
spring. For forming a head in a young tree the spring is better. But to
mature the wood, and increase the quantity, and improve the quality of
the fruit, September is much the best.
Such shortening in early in September, directs the sap to maturing the
wood, already formed and developing fruit-buds, instead of promoting the
growth of an undue quantity of young and tender wood, to be destroyed by
the winter, or to hinder the growth of the fruit of the next season.
This heading-in process, with these young shoots, is most easily
performed with pruning shears, with wooden handles, of a length suited
to the height of the tree.
[Illustration: Neglected Peach-Tree.]
[Illustration: Properly-trimmed Peach-Tree.]
But a work to precede this annual shortening-in, is the original
formation of a head to a peach-tree. Take a tree a year old from the
bud, and cut it down to within two and a half feet from the ground.
Below that numerous strong shoots will come out. Select three vigorous
ones and let them grow as they please, carefully pinching off all the
rest. In the fall you will have a tree of three good strong branches. In
the next spring cut off these three branches, one half. Below these
cuts, branches will start freely. Select one vigorous shoot to continue
the limb, and another to form a new branch. Check the growth of the
shoots below, by cutting off their ends, but do not rub them off, as
they will form fruit branches. At the close of the season you will have
a tree with six main branches, and some small ones for fruit, on the
older wood. Repeat this process the third year, and you have a tree with
twelve main branches, and plenty smaller ones for fruit. All these small
branches on the old wood, should be shortened in half their length, to
cause the leaf-buds near their base to start, so as to produce large
numbers of young shoots. Continue this as long as you please, and make
just as large a head and just such a form as you may wish, being careful
only to control the shape of the top so as to let the sun and air freely
into every part.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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