South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
I reached Durban, the only seaport in the Colony of Natal, about the end
of August,--that is, at the beginning of spring in that part of the
world. It was just too warm to walk about pleasantly in the middle of
the day and cool enough at night for a blanket. Durban has a reputation
for heat, and I had heard so much of musquitoes on the coast that I
feared them even at this time of the year. I did kill one in my bedroom
at the club, but no more came to me. In winter, or at the season at
which I visited the place, Durban is a pleasant town, clean, attractive
and with beautiful scenery near it;--but about midsummer, and indeed for
the three months of December, January and February, it can be very hot,
and, to the ordinary Englishman, unaccustomed to the tropics, very
unpleasant on that account.
I was taken over the bar on entering the harbour very graciously in the
mail tug which as a rule passengers are not allowed to enter, and was
safely landed at the quay about two miles from the town. I mention my
safety as a peculiar incident because the bar at Durban has a very bad
character indeed. South African harbours are not good and among those
which are bad Durban is one of the worst. They are crossed by shifting
bars of sand which prevent the entrance of vessels. At a public dinner
in the Colony I heard The Bar given as a toast. The Attorney General
arose to return thanks, but another gentleman was on his legs in a
moment protesting against drinking the health of the one great obstacle
to commercial and social success by which the Colony was oppressed. The
Attorney General was a popular man, and the lawyers were popular; but in
a moment they were obliterated by the general indignation of the guests
at the evil done to their beautiful land by this ill-natured freak of
Nature. A vast sum of money has been spent at Durban in making a
breakwater, all of which has,--so say the people of Durban and
Maritzburg,--been thrown away. Now Sir John Coode has been out to visit
the bar, and all the Colony was waiting for his report when I was there.
Sir John is the great emendator of South African harbours,--full trust
being put in his capability to stop the encroachments of sand, and to
scour away such deposits when in spite of his precautions they have
asserted themselves. At the period of my visit nothing was being done,
but Natal was waiting, graciously if not patiently, for Sir John’s
report. Very much depends on it. Up in the very interior of Africa, in
the Orange Free State and at the Diamond Fields it is constantly
asserted that goods can only be had through the Cape Colony because of
the bar across the mouth of the river at Durban;--and in the Transvaal
the bar is given as one of the chief reasons for making a railway down
to Delagoa Bay instead of connecting the now two British Colonies
together. I heard constantly that so many, or such a number of vessels,
were lying out in the roads and that goods could not be landed because
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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