South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
From this place I and the friend who was travelling with me went on by
cart to Ceres. It would have been practicable to go by railway at any
rate to the Ceres Road Station, but we were anxious to travel over two
of the finest mountain roads in South Africa, Bain’s Kloof, and
Mitchell’s Pass, both of which lay on the road from The Paarl to Ceres.
To do so we passed through Wellington and Wagon-maker’s valley, which
lay immediately under the Hottentot mountains. I have described grapes
and oranges as being the great agricultural industries of The Paarl
district;--but I must not leave the locality without recording the fact
that the making of Cape carts and wagons is a specialty of The Paarl and
of the adjacent country. It is no more possible to ignore the fact in
passing through its streets than it is to ignore the building of
carriages in Long Acre. The country up above The Paarl has been called
Wagon-maker’s valley very far back among the Dutch of the Cape, and the
trade remains through the whole district. And at Wellington there is I
believe the largest orange grove in the country. Time did not allow me
to see it, but I could look down upon it from some of the turns in the
wonderful road by which Mr. Bain made his way through the mountains.
Rising up from Wellington is the Bain’s Kloof road which traverses the
first instalment of the barrier mountains. It is the peculiarity of
these hills that they seem to lie in three folds,--so that when you make
your way over the first you descend into the valley of the Breede
River,--and from thence ascend again on high, to come down into the
valley of Ceres, with the third and last range of the Hottentots still
before you. Bain’s Kloof contains some very grand scenery, especially
quite at the top;--but is not equal either to Montague Pass,--or to
Mitchell’s Pass which we were just about to visit. Descending from this
we crossed at the fords two branches of the Breede River,--at one of
which the bridge was impassable, there never having been a bridge at the
other,--and immediately ascended Mitchell’s Pass. The whole of the
country north and east of Capetown as far as the mountains extend is
made remarkable by these passes which have been carried through the
hills with great engineering skill and at an enormous cost to the
Colony. It has chiefly been done by convict labour,--the labour of its
own convicts--for the Colony, as my reader will I hope remember, has
never received a convict from the Mother Country. But convict labour is
probably dearer than any other. The men certainly are better fed than
they would be if they were free. Houses have to be built for them which
are afterwards deserted. And when the man has been housed and fed he
will not work as a freeman must do if he means to keep his place. But
the roads have been made, and Mitchell’s Pass into the valley of Ceres
is a triumph of engineering skill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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