South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
On our way from Montague to Swellendam, where was to be our next short
sojourn, our Cape cart broke down. The axle gave way, and we were left
upon the road;--or should have been left, some fifteen miles from
Montague in one direction and the same distance from Swellendam in the
other, had not the accident happened within sight of a farm house. As
farm houses occur about once in every six or seven miles, this was a
blessing; and was felt so very strongly when a young Dutch farmer came
at once to our rescue with another cart. “I might as well take it,” he
said with a smile when we offered him half a sovereign, “but you’d have
had the cart all the same without it.” This was certainly true as we
were already taking our seats when the money was produced. I am bound to
say that I was never refused anything which I asked of a Dutchman in
South Africa. I must remark also that often as I broke down on my
travels,--and I did break down very often and sometimes in circumstances
that were by no means promising,--there always came a Deus ex machina
for my immediate relief. A generous Dutchman would lend me a horse or a
cart;--or a needy Englishman would appear with an animal to sell when
the getting of a horse under any circumstances had begun to appear
impossible. On one occasion a jibbing brute fell as he was endeavouring
to kick everything to pieces, and nearly cut his leg in two;--but a
kindhearted colonist appeared immediately on the scene, with a very
pretty girl in his cart, and took me on to my destination. And yet one
often travels hour after hour, throughout the whole day, without meeting
a fellow traveller.
Swellendam is such another village as The Paarl, equally enticing,
equally full of oaks, though not equally long. From end to end it is but
three miles, while The Paarl measures eight. But the mountains at
Swellendam are finer than the mountains at The Paarl, and with the
exception of those immediately over George, are the loveliest which I
saw in the Colony. Swellendam is close under the Langeberg range,--so
near that the kloofs or wild ravines in the mountains can be reached by
an easy walk. They are very wild and picturesque, being thickly wooded,
but so deep that from a little distance the wood can hardly be seen.
Here at the foot of the hills were exquisite sites for country
houses,--to be built, perhaps, by the future coloured millionaires of
South Africa,--with grand opportunities for semi-tropical gardens, if
only the water from the mountains could be used. Oranges, grapes, and
bananas grow with the greatest profusion wherever water has been “led
on.” And yet it seems that the district is the very country for oaks. I
had found more oaks during this last little tour through a portion of
the Western Province of the Cape Colony than I have ever seen during the
same time in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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