South Australia and Western AustraliaTrollope, Anthony
History
South Australia and Western Australia
Trollope, Anthony
South Australia; Western Australia
No man perhaps ever travelled two hundred and sixty miles with less
to see. The road goes eternally through wood,--which in Australia is
always called bush; and, possibly, sandy desert might be more tedious.
But the bush in these parts never develops itself into scenery, never
for a moment becomes interesting. There are no mountains, no hills
that affect the eye, no vistas through the trees tempting the foot
to wander. Once on the journey up, and once on the return, we saw
kangaroos, but we saw no other animal; now and again a magpie was heard
in the woods, but very rarely. The commonest noise is that of the
bull-frog, which is very loud, and altogether unlike the sound of frogs
in Europe. It is said that the Dutch under Peter Nuyt, when landing
somewhere on these coasts,--probably near Albany,--were so frightened
by the frogs that they ran away. I can believe it, for I have heard
frogs at Albany roaring in such a fashion as to make a stranger think
that the hills were infested with legions of lions, tigers, bears,
and rhinoceroses, and that every lion, tiger, bear, and rhinoceros in
the country was just about to spring at him. I knew they were only
frogs, and yet I did not like it. The bush in Australia generally is
singularly destitute of life. One hears much of the snakes, because
the snakes are specially deadly; but one sees them seldom, and no
precaution in regard to them is taken. Of all animals, the opossum is
the commonest. He may be easily taken, as his habits are known, but he
never shows himself. In perfect silence the journey through the bush
is made,--fifteen miles to some water-hole, where breakfast is eaten;
fifteen on to another water-hole, where brandy and water is consumed;
fifteen again to more water, and dinner; and then again fifteen, till
the place is reached at which the night-fire is made and the blankets
are stretched upon the ground. In such a journey, everything depends on
one’s companion, and in this I was more than ordinarily fortunate. As
we were taken by the mail contractor, we had relays of horses along the
road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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