If we look at a map of South London compiled at any time during the
eighteenth century it is surprising to observe how little the place had
grown since the fifteenth. There runs, as of old, the Causeway at right
angles to the Embankment. On either side of the Causeway or High Street
or St. Margaret's Hill, run off right and left a few narrow streets: the
continuity of houses is broken by St. George's Church, south of which,
although there are, here and there, detached houses and even rows of
houses or terraces, there are open fields, streams, ponds and gardens.
St. George's Fields, crossed by paths, are broad and open fields
stretching out westward till they join Lambeth Marsh. St. Margaret's
Church has long since vanished: he who knows the old maps can still put
his finger on the site, but its burial ground has wholly disappeared.
There are four old churches in Southwark proper: St. George's, St.
Saviour's, St. Thomas's, and St. Olave's. On the east are the churches
of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe, not to speak of Deptford: on the west is
Lambeth Church: on the south are the churches of Newington and
Kennington. As for other institutions, there are the two great hospitals
St. Thomas's and Guy's almost side by side: and there are the prisons,
that of the King's Bench, the Marshalsea and the White Lyon. They were
all on the east side of the street until 1756, when the King's Bench
Prison was removed across the road nearly opposite to St. George's. Some
time after the Marshalsea was moved further south on the site of the old
White Lyon and including that ancient Clink. The old Clink on Bankside
had vanished. But the Borough Compter was still flourishing--a grimy,
filthy, fever-stricken place.
[Illustration: OLD HOUSE, STONEY STREET, SOUTHWARK]
At the back of the houses and narrow streets to east and west, the
fields began with open ditches or sewers and sluggish streams. 'Snow's'
Fields on the east were as well known as St. George's in the West. 'Long
Lane' ran from St. George's to Bermondsey Church: it contained a few
houses: Bermondsey Lane, commonly called Barmsie, ran from the old cross
to the same church: it was already a street of houses. The most crowded
part of Southwark proper was the street called Tooley or St. Olave's,
the most ancient street in the Borough, originally built upon the
Embankment, the Thames Street of South London. Here, in the eighteenth
century, there were no vestiges left of the former palaces: everything
had gone except a crypt or a vault: at every step one came upon the
entrance to a court, narrow, mean and squalid: these courts remain, also
narrow, mean and squalid, to the present day. There were no places in
London, unless in the neighbourhood of Hermitage Street, Wapping, where
human creatures had to pig together in such horrible conditions. There
was no water supply to these courts: there was no lighting: there was no
paving, not even with the round cobbles which they still called paving.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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