Like Ranelagh and Bagnigge Wells, and indeed all the Pleasure Gardens,
the Dog and Duck was a favourite place for breakfasts. The fashion of
the public breakfast, now so completely forgotten, was brought to London
from Bath, Tunbridge Wells, and Epsom. Tea and coffee were served at
breakfast. After breakfast the people stayed on at the gardens, very
often all day and half the night at the Dog and Duck. There was a
bowling green for fine weather, there was also a swimming bath--I
believe, the only one south of the Thames. About three or four in the
afternoon there was dinner, with a bottle or several bottles of wine.
One of the ponds not then employed for duck-hunting was in the garden,
and served as an ornamental water, with alcoves or bowers round it; a
band played at intervals during the day. In the long room there was an
organ, with an excellent organist. In the evening, there was generally a
concert; the Dog and Duck maintained its own poet and its own composer.
All this sounds very innocent and Arcadian, but in truth the place was
acquiring a most evil reputation. In 1787 it was closed on Sunday, and
in 1799 it was suppressed. In the 'Sunday Ramble' (1794) the Dog and
Duck is open, but the Ramble may have taken place before 1787. Let us
see what is going on. Remember that it is Sunday evening. But there is
not the least trace of any respect for the day, and the place--to speak
the truth--is full of the vilest company in the world, whose histories
are described in the greedy fulness and with the hypocritical
indignation against the wickedness of the people which were common among
such writers a hundred years ago. I suppose they would not venture to
set down what they did, but for the pretence of indignation. Thus, there
is a certain City merchant, once a Quaker and formerly a bankrupt, but
now rich and flourishing again. His companion is an ex-orange-girl, his
mistress. Observe that the writer is certainly airing some City scandal
of the day, and that his readers know perfectly well who was meant.
There is a certain Nan Sheldon, who seems to have been a lady of some
conversational powers with a considerable fund of information about the
shady side of town life. There is also present a young lady described as
the mistress of the 'Rev. Dr. D----s, of St. G.' Here, no doubt, we have
a piece of contemporary humour which enables us to have a slap at the
Church. There is other company of the like kind, but this specimen must
suffice. As to the men, they are chiefly 'prentices and shopmen. At the
Dog and Duck the license to sell drink had been withdrawn. The manager,
however, met the difficulty by engaging a free vintner, _i.e._ a member
of the Vintners' Company, for whom no license was required. He
therefore came to sell the drink to the visitors. It is a curious
illustration of City privileges. Leaving the Dog and Duck, the Ramblers
visited the Temple of Flora, dropped a tear over the Apollo Gardens,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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