Look at Dulwich--the peaceful and picturesque village of Dulwich on this
map of 1834. It lies among its trees, its gardens, and its fields: the
venerable college of Alleyn is the glory of the village--nothing more
beautiful than this almshouse with its hall and its picture gallery. Yet
the people flocked out to Dulwich less for the picture gallery than the
shady walks, the fields, and a certain tavern--the Greyhound--which was
beloved by everybody, and believed to contain a particular brew of beer,
a particular kind of old Jamaica for punch, and a particular vintage of
port not to be found anywhere else, even in a City company's cellars.
There was, in fact, no more favourite place of resort for the better
sort of citizens of London than Dulwich in the summer. For the poorer
sort it was too far off, and cost too much in conveyance. The Dulwich
stage ran two or three times a day: it was not too long a drive from the
city; the young men rode--in those days the young men could all
ride--even John Gilpin thought he could ride; they hired a horse as we
now get into a cab. For those who lived in any suburb on the south,
Dulwich was an easy walk. Not far from the college and the village--Mr.
Pickwick lived there in 1834--were the Dulwich Fields, as beautiful and
interesting as those of Battersea were the contrary: there were, I
think, five of them in succession: the little stream called the Effra
rose somewhere in the neighbourhood, and ran about, winding through the
fields in a deep channel with rustic bridges across. In older days--at
the end of the eighteenth century, for example, the Effra, a bright and
sparkling stream, ran out of the fields above what is now called the
Effra Road, and so along the south side--or was it the north?--of
Brixton Road. Rustic cottages stood on the other side of the stream,
with flowering shrubs--lilac, laburnum, and hawthorn--on the bank, and
beds of the simpler flowers in the summer: the gardens and the cottages
were approached by little wooden bridges, each provided with a single
rail painted green. That, however, was before my time. In the 'fifties
the boys used to play in these fields, jumping over the stream: when
they left the fields and got into the village they looked about for Mr.
Pickwick and for Sam Weller, if haply they might see either. But I do
not learn that either sage or servant ever gratified those eyes of faith
by an incarnation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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