The place where we were to climb down into the Wadi Adim was tremendously
steep. It really seemed very like trying to climb down the sides of a
tea-cup, I wondered how we and the camels and horses would ever do it.
However we all did, and the valley became first a crack and then a little
wider, and the road then was not so very bad in its own wild way. As soon
as the valley became a little flat the men wanted to stop and wait for
the camels, but we said we would rather be in the village of Ghail Omr,
which they said was only just round a near corner.
So we went on, but for fully two miles, till the Wadi Adim crossed our
path. It was full of palms on the far side, so we went over there, but
were made, whether we would or no, to return to the mouth of our little
wadi again; they said on account of food for the camels. There was a
fearful row when we crossed the valley, to make us go back, there were
daggers out and loud shouts that my husband and I were rascals (harami)
and Imam Sharif a dog, and Matthaios and the rest of the servants were in
great alarm.
We were now in much anxiety and perplexity, for we were told the Tamimi
had not come, and they were to have been at Ghail Omr before us, to fetch
us to Bir Borhut. We ourselves were not at the appointed place, for we
were kept pent into the little wadi. We were told that two men had been
murdered on the way to Sheher, but we never made out who they were; also
that a seyyid and a lot of the Amri tribe had come, so the Relation took
my horse and went off to investigate them.
Next morning we thought it well to be ready and to look undismayed; the
seyyid with the ten Amri joined us, and we all turned into the Wadi Adim
to our right and south. The valley is most fruitful and well worth
seeing; there are miles of palm woods; it is about 100 feet higher than
Wadi bin Ali, the slope is greater and the mountains lower; it is the
most frequented caravan route from Sheher to the Hadhramout. We passed
plenty of people coming up, and one day we met a caravan of 150 camels
from Sheher with Hadhrami merchants returning from India to enjoy the
fruits of their rascality, and end their days on the sacred soil of
Arabia. There were little tents on the camels for women, and they seemed
to us to have very few armed men.
The stream Ghail Omr is the first running one we saw since Al Ghail. It
comes from the small Wadi Loban and is very considerable. Wadi Adim is
quite the gem of the valleys that we explored. There is a _ziaret_ or
place of pilgrimage, which attracts many people, to the tomb of a seyyid
Omr, called after Omar, one of the four successors to Mohammed. The
Jabberi seem, in spite of possessing this rich valley, to be a poor
tribe. There is a large population scattered in small homesteads. They
have slaves, who live in little huts made of palm branches, with the
interstices plastered with mud.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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