Next morning the soldiers brought my husband twelve of the fifteen
dollars the sheikh had received (being part of the original thirty, said
to be for the three other tribes of Hamoumi), saying that he was a very
wicked man, as he had not sent his four sons, so they had only left him
three dollars for the feast. Hardly had my husband put this by, when
Talib came and had to be given thirty-six dollars for _siyar_ to the
Mahri. Plainly we were in their hands, and had to pay whatever Talib
chose, as we might be hemmed in at any moment. We felt as if we were in a
net.
The eleven dollars camel-hire which we had kept out having gone to make
up this sum, and the camel-men refusing to load without it, we had to
unpack again to get it for them.
Sufeila, where we had endured such a disagreeable delay, is on the
tableland, 3,150 feet above the sea-level, with excellent air, excellent
water, palm and other trees, and would make a first-class sanatorium for
Aden. It is ten miles inland from Sheher as the crow flies.
About 8 o'clock next morning we started, not knowing precisely whence or
whither, and determined to keep together as much as possible. We followed
for miles the bed of a stream, which collects all the water from this
part of the akaba, and gradually develops into Wadi Adim, the great
approach to the Hadhramout. There is a fortress on a hill 3,500 feet
above the sea-level, the highest point in this part; Haibel Gabrein being
4,150 feet, and near Dizba the highest point is 4,900 feet. After some
miles on the akaba, we plunged into a valley about 200 feet wide, and
wooded with palms; the earthen cliffs were about 60 feet high, and the
bed sandy.
By this time we neither had a liking for valleys, cliffs, trees, nor
people. We did not feel pleased at being led straight across the valley
to a band of armed men, in a most unpleasant situation for us if they
meant mischief. These were only Jabberi travelling, and they were told
that we were friends of the sultan of Sheher, and not going to stay a
minute. I suppose they would have fired if we had not been introduced to
them. We were glad to reach Bir Baokban at 11.30. It is a well in a bare
place at the mouth of a valley. Talib did not wish to stay there, for the
water is brackish, and he wanted us to go on before the camel-men came
up, but we waited, and they and the Jabberi had a loud and angry quarrel,
and we were told there was no water nearer than Al Madi, and some of them
wanted to stop at a place half-way to Al Madi and send for water. We
could make neither head nor tail of it. Talib then asked my husband which
he wished to do, for so it should be; but as he knew it was a case of
'You may do as you like, but you must,' answered to that effect,
'Whichever Talib liked, we were in his hands and could not choose.' After
great hesitation we encamped in a windy, dusty, but rather pleasant place
near Bir Baokban.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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