I had a very uncomfortable ride, for on the way we saw an aloe of a kind
we had not seen before, and which proved to be new enough to obtain the
name of _Aloe Luntii_. The botanist sawed off the head of it (which is
growing now in Kew Gardens), and we knew he dared not try to take it on
his camel, as the men always quarrelled over every weight that was added
to the load; so I told him to go on and leave it, as if he did not care
for it, and then I tied it to the off-side of my saddle, and had to ride
hanging heavily on my left stirrup, as otherwise I should have been
over-balanced, and my horse would have got a sore back. On arrival, I
dismounted in a quiet place, put the aloe down with my jacket thrown on
it, and later fetched it into the tent, under cover of my feminine
draperies, and at night it was smuggled into some package. On one
occasion, when no one had been riding for some days past, a felt
saddle-cloth somehow was left behind by us, so one of our own men was
forced to carry it in his hand till I discovered it, and tied it to my
saddle, for he was not allowed to put it on a camel. I tell this to show
how very disobliging they were to us.
Mariala is the name of a disgusting pool or cistern of the very dirtiest
water, on a bare and lonely hillside, where we were exposed to wind and
cold, and where we encamped in much the same state of perplexity as
usual.
Soon after our arrival my husband was asked for eight dollars to send
fifteen men up the hills to look for murderers; he refused, then the
camel-men said they would not start without six men to go ahead, but that
was refused too.
Next morning we started for Al Madi. We wound up and down, over bare
ground, and could see no danger for miles. At a point on the highland we
waited for the camels to come up; they came and passed to the southward
on a well-trodden path. Talib called out to them to stop, and said that
he would not go that way, and that we should not, and that the men were
taking us into danger. He pointed to the south-west, but we did not like
parting from our baggage. Talib then asked my husband which way he
pleased to go.
'Which is the best?' he asked.
'I do not know,' said Talib.
'Very well,' said my husband, 'we will follow the camels.' On we all went
in great doubt, and the Jabberi told us awful stories of the Hamoumi
intentions. We had five armed Jabberi, seven soldiers, and twelve
Hamoumi, all armed, including two little boys.
The soldiers, so brave the night before, said: 'We can do nothing--we are
afraid. If we fired a gun, or if they fired, hundreds of people would
come, and they would kill us.'
They never either raised their weapons or their tongues in our defence.
They said the sultan of Sheher would not be able to go himself or send
soldiers into these parts, and that the Al Madi people wished to decoy us
to Al Madi and kill us. The Jabberi said the same, and Talib again wished
us to ride off with him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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