Acres and acres of tobacco, bananas, Indian corn, cotton, and other crops
are thus produced in the wilderness, and this cultivation has given rise
to the overgrown village.
The stream was discovered about five hundred years ago by one Sheikh
Omar, and before that time all this part was waste ground.
This fertilising spring rises under a hill to the east, where a large
reservoir has been dug out. Above on the hill are some Arab ruins, places
where things were stored, and there is a road up. Canals cut some twenty
feet deep, like the _kanats_ of Persia, conduct the water to the fields.
The chief product is tobacco, known as Hamoumi tobacco.
Our roof happened to command a view of the terrace where a bride and her
handmaidens were making merry with drums and coffee. In spite of the
frowns and gesticulations of the order-keeper, who flourished her stick
at us and bade us begone, we were able to get a peep, forbidden to males,
at the blushing bride. She wore on her head large silver bosses like tin
plates, her ears were weighed down with jewels, her fingers were straight
with rings, and her arms a mass of bracelets up to the elbow, and her
breast was hidden by a multiplicity of necklaces. Her face, of course,
was painted yellow, with black lines over her eyes and mouth like heavy
moustaches, and from her nose hung something which looked to us like a
gold coin. The bride herself evidently had no objection to my husband's
presence, but the threatening aspect of her women compelled us
reluctantly to retire.
On the 29th we set out for Sheher, or Shaher Bander as it is called, a
most cheerful set of people, at least as far as our own immediate party
was concerned; some of the others had little cause for pleasant
anticipations.
We were in advance of the baggage camels, riding our horses and donkey,
and accompanied by Talib, without his dagger, on his camel. Matthaios,
the Jabberi, and the soldiers surrounding the prisoner Mohammad, attached
by a long rope to my husband's horse, an arrangement not invented by my
husband, but which we enjoyed very much, and no wonder, after all we had
suffered!
The servants all thought that as soon as might be after getting to Sheher
we should take ship for Aden, and many were the plans made for vengeance
upon Saleh once he was safe in our clutches on board that ship.
We, however, had quite another design, which was that my husband and Imam
Sharif and I should go off to Bir Borhut, if the safety of our lives
could in any way be guaranteed, we taking only Noura, one of the Indian
servants, as our own attendant. Of course the others would be with their
master.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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