We were then led on foot quite to the other side of the town, where there
was a 'summer-house' partly constructed and partly furnished, the
builders were on one side and we on the other. We had a room with a
carpet, a settee, and two little tables, and set up our own beds and
chairs. We had rather a good dinner served by an Indian butler who could
talk English, so we had hopes of being very comfortable. The summer-house
at that time consisted of two very long rooms back to back, and several
rooms at each end projecting so as to form a verandah for each of the
long rooms. The back one was quite unfinished then, and upstairs there
were only rudimentary walls traced out, three or four feet high. There
was a great square wall surrounding a piece of desert in process of being
transformed into a garden; the sea sand came quite up to the wall.
We found the heat intense, so we had our tent somehow fastened up on the
roof to sleep. All the sides had to be tied up for coolness, but the
defences against mosquitoes and fleas were very stifling. Goats had been
kept on the roof, and hence the fleas. We could only stay there till
sunrise, and then had to betake ourselves to our suffocating room, to
find the flies wide awake. We had to use our mosquito curtains by day on
their account. In Shibahm the mosquitoes are awake by day only, and at
Aden both by day and night.
Imam Sharif found great favour in the eyes of the two sultans, who asked
him to supper every day. The conversations he had with them about us, and
the letters they had received from their cousin at Shibahm, did us far
more good than the letter from the wali of Aden. They said this gave them
no idea other than that my husband was 'only a merchant' or a person of
that rank. They were very hospitable to us while we were in their town.
They examined into our complaints with regard to the treatment we had
experienced on our journey. Mohammad, who had shot at us, and Ali, the
one who had extorted the money from us, were both imprisoned, and this
money was made to pay for our last two days' journey. Talib was forced
to repay the thirty dollars and sent to summon the heads of those
villages which had fired upon us, his sword being taken from him as a
disgrace, and all were to wait in Sheher, till after Ramadan was over, to
be judged.
This, of course, was pleasing to us; however, no money could repay us for
the anxiety of this journey under the protection of the Jabberi, and we
considered it as quite the worst experience we had ever undergone in the
course of any of our travels.
On reflection we could attribute these troubles neither to any
indiscretion on our part, nor to neglect of care on the part of the
sultan of Shibahm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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