The wind was favourable, but there was little of it, and fearing it would
fail entirely we planned to land, taking food, which would then be
attainable, and the one blanket we each had kept out, not knowing how
long we should be at sea, and lie in the sand, but we wasted an hour of
great trouble in a vain attempt. The shore was too shelving, so we
dressed ourselves in our blankets and settled down to catch bugs. We had
seen few by day, but by night they kept us busy, for they swarmed over us
with their descendants and their remote ancestors.
Once we saw some operations which made us think we were going to tack,
but to our dismay we perceived the captain hovering over his bedding, and
found that he had put the ship to bed, and we were meant to be violently
rocked in the cradle of the deep till morning; but he was firmly reasoned
with, and at two in the morning, worn and weary, we were borne ashore at
Sheher.
It being Ramazan, we easily found the Indian cook of the house, and asked
for some boiled eggs, but not till four did we get some very nasty fried
ones and tea, and then lay down on the floor anyhow, to fight with
mosquitoes and fleas, our baggage and beds being still on board; regular
quarantine measures were carried out as regards bugs when it came. I felt
too weak to stir till luncheon was brought me at twelve, there having
been some little difficulty as regarded breakfast.
The horse, donkeys, camels, _siyara_ people, and soldiers all came in by
land next day.
A period of waiting and hoping for a ship to take us to Aden now set in.
Our annoyances were rather aggravated by some Indian converts to
Mohammedanism being taught their prayers well within our hearing.
A promising ship was said to have gone to Hami for water, and anxiously
we turned our eyes in that direction for three days, till we were in such
desperation that my husband went down to find any small boat to take us
as far as Makalla, but the ship had come at last and we were able to
leave.
Hussein Mia and Ghalib Mia took leave of us with much friendliness and
hopes of seeing us the following year, which they did.
Mia is a kind of title.
We were told that the captain had gone on board with the baggage, but we
found it covering a vast expanse of sand, live hens, dead foxes, swords,
spears, and other strange things making it look very unlike Christian
baggage. We also had quantities of cocoanuts, that we might have some
palatable water on the voyage. A bargain was made with much shouting in a
great crowd, to put us and all belonging to us on board for four dollars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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