They wanted us to stay where we were, but not wishing to remain without
conveniences, we succeeded in getting between them and the door, and then
found our way out of the building and rejoined our servants and our
baggage on the beach. We flourished our letter to Wali Suleiman in his
face; we expostulated, threatened, and cajoled, and passed a whole
miserable hour by the shore, seated on our belongings under the blazing
afternoon sun, watching our steamer gradually disappearing in the
distance. Hemmed in by Bedouin, who stared at us as if we had come from
the moon, exceedingly hot, hungry, and uncomfortable, we passed a very
evil time indeed, speculating as to what would be the result of the
conclave of the old head-men; but at last they approached us in a more
friendly spirit, begged our pardon, and reinstated us in the fort with
our bag and baggage, and were as civil as they could be. To our dying day
we shall never know what caused us this dilemma. Did they really think we
had come to seize their fort (which we afterwards heard was the case),
and interfere with their frankincense monopoly? Or did they think we had
come to look into the question of a large Arab dhow, which was flying the
French flag, and was beached on the shore, and which we had reason to
believe was conveying a cargo of slaves to one of the neighbouring
markets for disposal? Personally, I suspect the latter was the true
reason of their aversion to our presence, for the coast from here to
Maskat has a bad reputation in this respect, and just lately Arab
slave-dhows have been carrying on their trade under cover of protection
obtained from France at Obok and Zanzibar. The inhabitants have plaited
hair and knobkerries. I believe they belong to the Jenefa tribe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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