We retired in due course to our tent and our beds, but not to sleep, for
in addition to their discordant songs, in rushing to and fro they would
catch in our tent-guys, and give us sudden shocks, which rendered sleep
impossible. Exasperated at this beyond all bearing, my husband at length
rushed out and caught a Bedou in the very act of tumbling over a guy.
Needless to say a well-placed kick sent him quickly about his business,
and after this silence was established and we got some repose.
Next morning, however, when we were prepared to start, we found our
Bedouin all seated in a silent, solemn phalanx, refusing to move. 'What
is the matter?' my husband asked, 'why are we not ready to start?' and
from amongst them arose a stern, freezing reply. 'You must return to Al
Hafa. We can travel no more with you, as Theodore has kicked Sheikh
Sehel,' for by this time they had become acquainted with our Christian
names, and never used any other appellative.
We felt that the aspect of affairs was serious, and that in the night
season he had been guilty of an indiscretion which might imperil both our
safety and the farther progress of our journey. So we affected to take
the matter as a joke, laughed heartily, patted Sheikh Sehel on the back,
said that we did not know who it was, and my husband entered into a
solemn compact that if they would not catch in our guys again, he would
never kick his majesty any more. It was surprising to see how soon the
glum faces relaxed, and how soon all ill-feeling was forgotten. In a very
few minutes life and bustle, chattering and good humour reigned in our
camp, and we were excellent friends again.
It was on the third day after leaving Al Hafa that we passed through one
of the districts where frankincense is still collected, in a narrow
valley running down from the mountains into the plain of Dhofar. The
valley was covered for miles with this shrub, the trunk of which, when
punctured, emits the odoriferous gum. We did not see any very large
trees, such as we did in Sokotra. The Bedouin choose the hot season, when
the gum flows most freely, to do this puncturing. During the rains of
July and August, and during the cool season, the trees are left alone.
The first step is to make an incision in the trunk, then they strip off a
narrow bit of bark below the hole, so as to make a receptacle in which
the milky juice, the _spuma pinguis_ of Pliny, can lodge and harden. Then
the incision is deepened, and after seven days they return to collect
what are, by that time, quite big tears of frankincense, larger than an
egg.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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