The next morning, refreshed and supplied with the requisites for another
journey, we started off again in our easterly course towards Takha, the
most important village at the east end of the plain of Dhofar. As we rode
across the plain we were perpetually harassed by the thought as to where
the excellent harbour could be, which is mentioned by all ancient writers
as frequented by the frankincense merchants, and which modern writers,
such as Dr. Glaser and Sir E. H. Bunbury, agree in considering to be some
little way west of Merbat. Yakut tells us how the ancient ships on their
way to and from India tarried there during the monsoons, and he further
tells us that it was twenty parasangs east of the capital. The 'Periplus'
speaks of it as Moscha, Ptolemy as Abyssapolis, and the Arabs as Merbat;
but as there is no harbourage actually at Merbat, it clearly could not be
there. So as we went along we pondered on this question, and wondered if
this celebrated harbour was, after all, a myth.
It was a most uninteresting ride along this coast: flat, and for the most
part barren, broken here and there by lagoons of brackish and
evil-smelling water and mangrove swamps. On the way we saw antelopes and
foxes with white bushy tails. One night we encamped by one of these river
beds on slightly rising ground, and were devoured by mosquitoes, and so
pestilent are these insects here that they not only attacked us, but
tormented our camels to such a degree that they were constantly jumping
up in the night and making such hideous demonstrations of their
discomfort that our rest was considerably interfered with.
When we reached Takha, after a ride of fifteen miles, we found ourselves
once more amongst a heap, or rather two heaps, of Sabaean ruins, which had
not been so much disturbed by subsequent occupants as those at the
capital, but at the same time they were not nearly so fine, and the
columns were mostly undecorated. There were also some very rough
sarcophagi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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