The wind died away about nine, and we shook about and went round and
round; but in the afternoon we had a good wind, and at noon of the next
day (January 28) we were before Kishin.
The sultan was at his village, three miles inland, or, more correctly, in
sand--a hot walk. He is a wizened little old man, who can neither read
nor write, and was poorly dressed, visitors being quite unexpected.
The village of Kishin, the Mahri capital, consists of a few scattered
houses and some Bedou huts of matting and poles placed in a dreary sandy
waste, very different from the fertile plain of Dhofar, and more like the
surroundings of Sheher.
When my husband asked for the sultan's assistance to go into the
Hadhramout, he said: 'No one ever goes that way, it is full of robbers.'
Of course he was civil enough, as my husband showed him the letter from
Maskat, but he seemed to have little authority. I think his followers
were sorry to see such a likely prize depart unmolested. Those on board
were rather alarmed at the length of time consumed in these negotiations.
The old Sultan Salem is father to the sultan of Sokotra, which belongs to
the Mahri tribe, and brother to the sultan of Saihut, another robber
chief, who is equally averse to admitting Europeans to his dominions. The
fact is that these tribes object to European inquiry, as they know they
would no longer be able to exist in their present condition.
My husband extracted from him a letter to his brother of Saihut.
After our futile attempts to penetrate into the Mahri country, there was
nothing left for us but to start again in our boat for Sheher, and rely
on the promises which Sultan Hussein al Kaiti had given us the year
before of sending us under safe escort to the eastern portion of the
Hadhramout valley, which must contain much of interest, not yet having
been explored by Europeans; so we set sail again, and were soon passing
country that we had ridden over on camels.
Ras Fartak is the great landmark, but the fine scenery ends at Jedid.
Looking back, the rich colouring of the capes, seeming to overlap one
another, and the great height, give a most impressive effect. The slopes
are adorned with feathery-looking trees, and there are many little sandy
beaches, and there were also many deep caverns. For two days we saw
hardly an inhabitant.
Between Jedid and Ras Fartak the land is low and recedes, and as we
sailed along we decided that it was the mouth of some big valley from the
interior, and after careful cross-examination of the sultan of Kishin and
our sailors we gathered that this was actually the mouth of the great
Hadhramout valley, which does not take the extraordinary bend that is
given in our maps, but runs in almost a straight line from west to east,
and the bend represents an entirely distinct valley, the Wadi Mosila,
which comes out at Saihut.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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