Sometimes when the coral reef rises above the surface low islets have
been formed, with sandy surface and a scant marine vegetation. By one of
these, named Siyal, we were anchored for a night, and on landing we found
it about three miles in length, some 50 feet in width, and never more
than 4 feet above the surface of the sea. On its eastern side the shore
was strewn with cinders from the numerous steamers which ply the Red Sea,
and quantities of straw cases for bottles, out of which the ospreys,
which live here in large numbers, have built their nests. Turtles revel
in the sand, and corals of lovely colours line the beach, and at one
extremity of the islet we found the remains of a holy sheikh's hut, with
his grave hard by. Many such holy men dwell on promontories and on remote
island rocks along this coast in sanctified seclusion, and they are
regularly supported by the Bedouin and pearl-fishers, who bring them food
and water, neither of which commodities is to be found in such
localities. Our sailors on New Year's Eve took a handsome present of
bread and candles, presented to them by us, to a holy man who dwelt on
the extreme point of Ras Bernas, and had a long gossip with him
concerning what boats had passed that way and the prospects of
trade--_i.e._ the slave trade--in these desert regions. They burnt
incense before his shrine, and the captain devoutly said his evening
prayer, whilst he of the tom-tom, Ahmet Faraj, stood behind and mimicked
him, to the great amusement of his fellows--a piece of irreverence I have
never seen before in any Mohammedan country. Still I think our sailors
were as a whole religious; they observed their fasts and prayers most
regularly during Ramazan, and their only idea of time was regulated by
the five prayers. 'We shall start to-morrow at "God is great," and anchor
at the evening prayer,' and so forth, they used to say.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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