Sheikh Ali Debalohp, the chief of the Kilab tribe, was to take us to his
district, Wadi Hadai and Wadi Gabeit, some way inland at the back of the
Erba mountains, which group we insisted on going entirely round. He was a
tall, fine specimen of a Bishari sheikh, with his neck terribly scarred
by a burn, to heal which he had been treated in hospital at Sawakin. He
is, as we learnt later, a man of questionable loyalty to the Egyptian
Government, and supposed to be more than half a Dervish; this may be
owing to the exigencies of his position, for more than half his tribe
living in the Wadi Hayet are of avowed allegiance to the Khalifa, and
Debalohp's authority now only extends over the portion near the coast. As
far as we could see his intentions towards us were strictly honourable,
and he treated us throughout our expedition in a much more
straightforward manner than either of the other two.
Sheikh number two was Mohammed, the son of Ali Hamed, head sheikh of a
branch of the great Kurbab tribe. As his father was too old and infirm to
accompany us, he took his place. He was an exceedingly dirty and
wild-looking fellow, with a harsh, raucous voice, and his statements were
not always reliable. We have reason to believe that his father is much
interested in the slave-trade, and therefore not too fond of Europeans;
but these sheikhs by the coast are generally obliged to be somewhat
double in their dealings, and, when anything can be gained by it, affect
sincere friendship for the English.
Sheikh number three bore the name of Hassan Bafori, and is _wagdab_ or
chief of another branch of the Kurbabs, and his authority extends over
the massive group of Mount Erba and Kokout. He is a man who seems to
revel in telling lies, and we never could believe a word he said. Besides
these head-men we had several minor sheikhs with us, and two soldiers
sent by the mamour from his garrison at Mohammed Gol to see that we were
well treated. Hence our caravan was of considerable dimensions when we
took our departure from Mohammed Gol on February 6.
He of the Kilab tribe, Ali Debalohp, was the most important of them, and
he took one of his wives with him; all had their servants and
shield-bearers, and most of them were wild, unprepossessing looking men,
with shaggy locks and lard-daubed curls, and all of them were, I
believe, thorough ruffians, who, as we were told afterwards, would
willingly have sold us to the Dervishes had they thought they would have
gained by the transaction. These things officials told us when we reached
Sawakin; but, to do our guides justice, I must say they treated us very
well, and inasmuch as we never believed a word they said, the fact that
they were liars made but little difference to us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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