Of course an exchange of gifts took place, and we were sent a sheep and a
huge basketful of milk. The basket was shaped like a vase, a foot in
diameter. A very nice inhabitant of the forbidden Wadi Hayet came to see
us, Sheikh Seyyid Ta'ah. He gave us useful information as to the
geography of his neighbourhood and the course of the valley.
Captain Smyth went off from Sellala with Sheikh Mohamed to take a peep
into Wadi Hayet, and on February 22 we left the place without any regret
and turned northward. There are five Sellalas, and one is really an
oasis. The splendid mountains of Erba had been quite obscured by the
sand, though there had been a magnificent view of them when we arrived.
On the way we passed three more of the tall towers similar to those we
had previously seen, and felt still more convinced that they were
connected with the gold industry in the inland valley, and had been built
to mark the roads conducting in that direction.
We tried to find a sheltered nook to encamp in when we reached the
mountains, but in vain. We stayed at Harboub, and were nearly stifled by
the dirty dust that blew into the tents. The water was very clear and
soft.
We continued northward for two hours and a half, and then turned westward
up the steep Wadi Ambaya.
Wadi Ambaya is the chief valley of Mount Erba, and it runs right into the
heart of the mountain. Up this we were conducted by Sheikh Hassan, in
whose territory we now found ourselves. This valley is fairly well
inhabited by pastoral people; they live in huts dotted about here and
there, which are difficult to recognise from their likeness in colour to
the rocks surrounding them, which they would almost seem to have been
made to mimic. The slopes of Erba provide pasturage for a large number of
flocks at all seasons of the year. Nabidua, the highest peak of the
range, reaches an elevation of 7,800 feet; Sherbuk and Emeri are not
much lower, and the outline of the rugged peaks is exceedingly fine. Up
in the higher parts of this range there are a great number of ibex,
several of which fell to Captain Smyth's rifle, but we did not care much
for the flesh. The natives hunt them with dogs of a breed said to be
peculiar to these parts.
Our camp in Wadi Ambaya was a delicious spot, amid fantastic boulders and
rich vegetation. On climbing up the gorge beyond us we came across a
stream with running water, forming deep green pools among the rocks, and
to us, after the arid deserts we had passed through, this spot was
perfectly ideal; and the people, too, who dwell up in the higher ground,
look infinitely healthier--lithe, active men, who leap like goats from
rock to rock, each with a sword and shield. There are several valleys in
Erba penetrating into the heart of the mountains, but Ambaya is the
principal one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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