Their hair is cut in a straight fringe across the forehead and is in
little plaits hanging behind. They wear a loose veil of a gauzy nature,
with which they conceal half their faces at times. Silver rings and
bracelets of a very poor character, and glass bangles, complete their
toilet, and the commoner class and Bedou women weave a strong cloth in
narrow strips of goat-hair, which they wrap in an inelegant fashion round
their hips to keep them warm, sometimes as their only garment. They do
not cover their faces. From one end of Sokotra to the other we never
found anything the least characteristic or attractive amongst the
possessions of the islanders, nothing but poor examples of what one finds
everywhere on the south coast of Arabia and east of Africa.
Many weddings were going on during our residence at Kalenzia, and at them
we witnessed a ceremony which we had not seen before. On the morning of
the festive day the Sokotrans, negro slaves being apparently excluded,
assembled in a room and seated themselves round it. Three men played
tambourines or tom-toms of skin called _teheranes_, and to this music
they chanted passages out of the Koran, led by the 'mollah'; this formed
a sort of religious preliminary to a marriage festival; and in the
evening, of course, the dancing and singing took place to the dismal tune
of the same tom-toms, detrimental, very, to our earlier slumbers. The
_teherane_ would seem to be the favourite and only Sokotran instrument of
music--if we except flutes made of the leg-bones of birds common on the
opposite coast, and probably introduced thence--and finds favour alike
with Arab, Bedou, and Negro.
The people here did not torment us by staring at and crowding round us.
They came only on business, to be doctored, to sell something, or to
bring milk wherewith to purchase from us lumps of sugar.
The houses are pleasantly shaded amongst the palm groves, and have nice
little gardens attached to them in which gourds, melons, and tobacco
grow; and in the middle of the paths between them one is liable to
stumble over turtlebacks, used as hencoops for some wretched specimens of
the domestic fowl which exist here, and which lay eggs about the size of
a plover's.
Though a poor-looking place it looks neat with its little sand-strewn
streets.
It contains a single wretched little mosque, in character like those
found in third-rate villages in Arabia; Kadhoup or Kadhohp possesses
another, and Tamarida no less than two; and these represent the sum total
of the present religious edifices in Sokotra, for the Bedouin in their
mountain villages do not care for religious observances and own no
mosques.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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