Near Ras Momi, to the east of the island, we discovered a curious form of
ancient sepulture. Caves in the limestone rocks have been filled with
human bones from which the flesh had previously decayed. These caves were
then walled up and left as charnel-houses, after the fashion still
observed in the Eastern Christian Church. Amongst the bones we found
carved wooden objects which looked as if they had originally served as
crosses to mark the tombs, in which the corpses had been permitted to
decay prior to their removal to the charnel-house, or koimetheria, as the
modern Greeks call them.
We stayed two days at Eriosh to study the _graffiti_ and tombs.
Water had to be fetched from Diahamm, which we afterwards passed. It was
brackish. I have heard _riho_ said for water, but _diho_ was mostly used,
and certainly the names of many water-places began with Di. I remember my
husband answering the question where we should camp by calling out in
Arabic 'Near the water.' This was echoed in Sokoteri, '_Lal diho_.'
We took five days in getting from Kalenzia to Tamarida, and found the
water question on this route rather a serious one until we reached Mori
and Kadhoup, where the streams from the high mountains began. Mori is a
charming little spot by the sea, with a fine stream and a lagoon, and
palms and bright yellow houses as a foreground to the dark-blue
mountains.
Kadhoup is another fishing village built by the edge of the sea, with a
marshy waste of sand separating it from the hills; it possesses a
considerable number of surf-boats and canoes, and catamarans, on which
the fishermen ply their trade. Just outside the town women were busy
baking large pots for the export of butter, placing large fires around
them for this purpose. The Sokotrans are very crude in their ceramic
productions, and seem to have not the faintest inclination to decorate
their jars in any way. There were quantities of flamingoes on the beach.
We encamped at the foot of the hills, with a watery and sandy waste
between us and the village.
There are the foundations of some curious unfinished houses near Kadhoup,
also assigned to the Portuguese; but there appears to me to be no reason
whatsoever for ascribing these miserable remains to the builders of the
fine forts at Maskat, the founders of Ormuz and Goa, and the lords of the
East up to the seventeenth century.
The mountains here jut right out into the sea, forming a bold and rugged
coast line, and the path which connects the two places is as fine a one
to look upon as I have ever seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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