At first, after leaving Saiehen, we kept along the lower ground for some
time, passing by Garriah Khor, a very long inlet or lagoon which
stretches inland for at least two miles. We dismounted at Dis'hass,
where, we were told by Ammar, 'the English once had houses.' It was a
mass of ruins.
We went over a pass about 2,500 feet high, and up and down two sets of
hills to a level plain about 1,500 feet high, extending all the way to
Ras Momi. As we ascended we passed a peak 2,000 feet high, called
Godahan, which has a great hole in the middle of it, through which a
large patch of sky is visible. We encamped near it, close to the hamlet
of Kit'hab, in a wood of palms and various other trees, full of those
pretty green and grey birds, half parrot and half dove, whose beauty,
however, did not save them from our pot.
From this place and even before we reached it we had very little personal
use of our camels, the clambering up as well as down was so severe.
There is behind the peak of Godahan a curious flat ridge, raised not very
many feet above the plateau, which is called Matagioti, and is perfectly
honeycombed with fissures and crevices, offering delightful homes for
people of troglodytic tendencies. Huge fig-trees grow in these crevices,
and dragon's-blood trees, and large herds of cows and goats revel in the
rich carpet of grass which covers the flat surface of the plateau.
Unfortunately, this rich pasture ground is only indifferently supplied
with water. We obtained ours from two very nasty holes where rain-water
had lain, and in which many cattle had washed; and when these dry up the
Bedouin have to go down to the lower valleys in search of it. Before we
left it had assumed the appearance of porter.
There was a great deal of lavender growing about and numerous pretty
flowers, and we found many shells in that place. It was so very cold that
we had a fine bonfire to dine by, and the dew that night was drenching,
pouring off our tents like rain in the morning.
As Ras Momi is approached the country wears a very desolate aspect; there
are no trees here, but low bushes and stunted adeniums covered with
lichen, and looking just like rocks with little bushes on them; very
little water, but plenty of grass.
We encamped near the hamlet of Saihon, where, though there was no
appearance of a mosque, there was not only a mollah but a doctor. The
former was so free from fanaticism as to send us a present of a lamb.
The inhabitants were very friendly to us, and let us go into their houses
and watch their occupations. The women were busy grinding limestone to
make pots; and we obtained a very dirty little bag full of a kind of
organic substance like small white stones, which is ground to powder,
mixed with water into a whitish paste, which after a little time turns
red. I think they paint the pots with it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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